 Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 11:51 am Post subject: |
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???  |
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| Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 10:39 am Post subject: |
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Al, trade it in for a Yaris  |
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| Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 12:01 am Post subject: |
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| lol
battery tested ok, CCA fine, dropped a little when load tested. Check out my no revving anymore
http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x73/bigal333/?action=view¤t=26072012004.mp4 Sweeeet:) |
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| Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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| Is this true Al? That's very sad
Actually I just remembered my battery has just turned 3. |
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| Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Al, have you been waiting 3 years to the day to tell us that!? | |
| Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 2:00 pm Post subject: |
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| 3 years later and the battery is still going strong. I just swapped alternators and getting old one tested as mine was making the charge light glow, swapped the charge light for a 2.3w bulb and now car will charge from turning the key, once I get the engine to idle a little higher from cold.
Just going to get the battery tested after having it on trickle charge @ 2amps since Monday. |
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| Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:34 am Post subject: |
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Here's my 2p (and it's a while until pay day, so it's my last one!  )
Battery technology is a funny thing, I'm not sure it's an exact science, although it's better these days than it used to be. |
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| Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:12 am Post subject: |
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| did it start...
nothing on 12.66V ignition on 12.55V cranking 10.62V idle 14.10V fast idle 14.08V load idle 11.8V fast idle 12.30V after load idle 13.94V fast idle 13.88V thanks guys for all your help and suggestion, do i get my alternator bench tested? |
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| Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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| place bets now!!!!!
will it start?? Will have been 5 days tomorrow, I can't test for drains any more as I accidentally bug er d up my DMM, doh! |
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| Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 12:24 pm Post subject: |
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| Hey Ian,
Thanks, I normally don't have a problem, however it does crank faster now, but I guess the cold weather really tests things out, must have been the drain? The battery guy said that it just passed with one green bar out of 3, I think. My alternator, Bosch 0 120 488 118 119 has a blue sticker on it saying, K1 14V 23/65A however I have just changed the regulator for one that just says 14V, don't know if that will make any difference. Does the alternator, as in the bits that do the ac - dc conversion "rectifier" dictate the amp output, or the regulator, which I thought only doed the voltage? |
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| Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:05 am Post subject: |
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| Al,
Good to hear that it started.. What did the Battery guys say about the state of the Battery? That unit that was put onto it sounds like a load tester. This would pick up any dud cells in the battery that would diminish the amount of charge that it holds. Another idea may be to replace your alternator with a higher amp one. From memory I can't remember what the stock standard ones are. 75 amps??? Cheers Ian |
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| Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:16 pm Post subject: |
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| dear Alfa Diary,
today i went to start my car, after 2 days not being used and got the following. engine off 12.83V 12.69 ignition on and dropping 10.90 cranking engine on nothing on 14.06 idle 14.04 fast idle under load 11.85 idle 12.25 fast idle nothing on after load 13.88 idle 13.88 fast idle Shall I take my alternator off to it get tested or not? What do you think? It hasn't been that cold of late, do you think i should test for a longer period? I got called in to cover for my work collegue as she was ill. |
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| Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 2:08 am Post subject: |
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| Dear Alfa diary....
Well today I connected my MultiMeter and got 12.78V After turning on the ignition I got 12.56V and dropping, 11.30V when cranking. With the engine on No load I got Fast idle 14.5V Idle 14.18V Loaded, as before plus rear wiper Idle 11.69V Fast idle 12.25V Surely this is where you need 14V I got the battery checked with this thing I have never seen before. Normally all that I have seen done before is a two pronged thing that is pressed onto the + and -. This thing was a big metal box with 2 readouts and a couple of buttons and a dial. He looked at the crank amps on my battery, 420A and turned the dial to match, then he turned it on and pressed a button. It took about 2 minutes and had two results, one passed fully and the other passed with one green bar out of three. The car won’t get used now for another 4 days or 7, I have left the battery connected but with the 2 fuses removed that causes the drain. I have found a place that will test an alternator on the bench, to see if all 3 phases of the rectifier are working and if not will price up a repair. Place bets now, will it start or not |
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 10:20 pm Post subject: |
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| lol, if it was a carb version, deffo, but the 16v sound a bit harsh and mechanical for me. I would love to get that plenum chamber off and hear those throttle bodies sing.
I have my battery booster ready and will leave early just incase, i think it will be ok  |
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 9:30 pm Post subject: |
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| I'm for a yes........no music for you, you should be contented with the song of the flat 4!. |
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 7:58 pm Post subject: |
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| Place bets now!!!
Will the battery be flat tomorrow after 2 days inc snow |
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 7:41 am Post subject: |
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what do you think now? doesn't seem to be much of a change, diodes in the alternator?? |
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| Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Thanks for your 2 pence, I’ll raise you a fiver
I was thinking of a Voltage gauge but it won’t be able to tell you if there is enough cranking power left in the battery. How do you get around not using the heater blower and rear window heater in the freezing cold spells? I normally start the car, get the alternator charging by revving a little and let the car idle with the heater blowing on the window and the rear window heater on whilst I scrape my windows, usually on the outside, then I drive with the lights on. Did Alfa under rate the charging system biased towards their warmer climate as I think that’s not too much to ask, even having the radio on as well??? I wired the hands free kit direct to the battery as I liked the idea of being able to answer my phone if I’m working on the car. I think I will just add a switch. The stereo has both the battery backup and power wired directly to live as I don’t like the idea of having the ignition on just to have the radio on when the engine is not running, not that that happens that often, another switch maybe? I have an amp and sub which are only turned on via the exciter wire from the head unit. I’ve always wanted to fit a cap and another battery in the boot, but never got round to it. I couldn’t live without my music as this is my first ever amp and sub combo transplanted from my red ser 3. The Hal fords batteries are quite expensive as well, but after what you have just said that’s even more incentive to stay clear of them. I’ve been reading up on batteries and finally the technology is beginning to move forward, due to new electric cars I guess. Other than gel filled batteries, I read something about some material that has a higher surface area compared to the plates so it resists scaling and holds a longer charge I normally do two long runs in one day, once a week and an eight mile round trip occasionally four or three days prior to or after the long run. |
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| Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 6:39 pm Post subject: |
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| Hi Al , hes my 2 pence worth, you have too many gadgets in the car wired on permanent live wires. The readings your getting seem fine for the car (bear in mind I have a voltage gauge fitted to the 33). I was advised not to use windscreen blowers and heated rear window and headlights at the same time as the battery will never get a charge back on any journey. Your battery will never read a correct voltage as its under load even when the cars not in use and will show signs of deterioration even after a few months of being new, I think your right about moving the hands free kit off the permanent live it will help the longevity of the battery. Also do you have a stereo with amplifier(s) in the motor because they really drain the voltage unless you fit a cap. IMHO halfords calcium batteries are Cr*p I know I had 2 within 18 months, the hoppecke one you have are good but the latest gel filled batteries should be the way to go 100% maintenance free. Just a story for you my mum had a brand new sierra 2l ghia several years back and in the short journeys to her work and back in the dark, in traffic , it used to eat batteries every 6 months!!, the problem was the car was barely outputting voltage back to the battery as she had switched everything on radio, lights ,hrw, heater blowers and wipers from time to time it went back to ford 4 times and the warranty meant they got new battery every time, the problem stopped when my dad started to use the car for his work and it had a longer journey to do and he drove it like a bloke would . |
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| Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 5:59 pm Post subject: |
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| I now get the following
Nothing on Idle 14.09V Fast idle 14.02V Under load Idle 12.00V 0.10V lower Fast idle 12.40V no change However after the load test I got Nothing on Idle 13.88 0.22V higher Fast idle 13.88 0.22V higher I have read the following ANOTHER QUICK CHECK FOR BOSCH ALTERNATORS One way to check the integrity of the alternator and diodes on Bosch alternators is to check the voltage readings at the D+ (blue wire) terminal and B+ terminal. The voltage reading should be the same at both terminals. A difference of more than one volt would indicate faulty diodes and the need to replace the alternator. Bosch does not recommend full fielding as a procedure for testing alternator output because full fielding may damage onboard electronics. I couldn’t do the drain testing as I accidentally tested for voltage when the MultiMeter was still set to test current, DOH! I have stopped the drain for now by leaving out the two fuses. Have i just wasted my time?  |
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| Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 4:06 pm Post subject: |
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eagle3
I think that’s a quirk that all us 33 owners know about and I did indeed rev above 2k before letting it idle
The battery is holding 12.95V after that condition cycle and left for a few hours. I am about to change the regulator and test again. I'll pop back and update and then try and find out what’s causing my drain. 3rd fuse down right column horn, lighter, radio, brake light, fuse box lighting Thanks eagle3 top right fuse clock, roof lights, fuse box lighting, central locking Looked in the manual |
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| Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 1:24 pm Post subject: |
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| You need to run the engine at at least 2000 rpm. The alternateur won't charge at all at idle.
But as you only had 12.4V at fast idle with everything switched on compared to 13.66 with nothing on, that would suggest to me that the brushes are worn. Of course the battery may be a goner as well. But you can get it tested before buying another. |
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| Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 1:20 pm Post subject: |
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| I've been told, by my mate who i will owe a drink, that they just need daylight, not direct sunlight, which is a good thing, as you say in th U.k |
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| Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:06 pm Post subject: |
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In the UK that would probably add a further drain
John |
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| Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 11:54 am Post subject: |
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Eagle3
So do you think it’s the battery? The regulator and brushes is one complete unit. Icky I had been thinking about getting one of those as my car isn't used that often, my mate, who no longer drives, thinks he can give me his old one, if he can find it and i will buy him a drink me thinks. Now I have found what circuits have the drain on them, I can just unplug those fuses until I find out what is causing them. The thing I don’t get is that when I had a flat battery, on tick over the battery was only showing 8.5V on tick over under load, shouldn't it be more like 14V so it charges the battery? Now, with a fully charged battery it shows 12.10V on tick over under load. Is everything o.k. and just down to my drain on the battery? |
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