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What oil for a 16v
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 6:01 am    Post subject: What oil for a 16v Reply with quote

I know this topic has been talked about before, but a search for "what" "engine" and "oil" gives quite a lot of results so...
"What oil for a 16v"
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 4:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No one going to open the tin of worms???? Laughing
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

For me pretty well any half decent synthetic. Normally a 5W40 fully synthetic BP oil as I had a decent deal on the stuff with the local distributer.

All the best

Keith
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rsfruitbat
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many years ago I spoke to an old Alfa mechanic. and I asked him exactly the same question about an 8V boxer engine. His reply was " use whatever make you want but make sure its a 20/50 and change it regularly" Synthetics weren't common then so I assume thats why he said change it regularly.
Its funny though with my old rally car engines I tried some of the synthetics and had quite a few problems. I always ended up returning to an oil called R351 which was a monograde designed for the Lotus twincam!!
I asked the same question again recently of a well known Alfa tuner and the surprising thing was his answer was virtually the same as the old guy. Use a 20/50 whether its 8V or 16V. He doesnt seek out synthetics as he says he has seen more wear when they are used and he suggested another oil that I cant remember but I have got some to go in my engine.

THE CAN OF WORMS IS OPEN

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BigAl
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks rsfruitbat
Interesting comments
let the worming commence
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rsfruitbat
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Valvoline VR-1 Racing is what was recommended.

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BigAl
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsfruitbat
Valvoline VR-1 Racing 20/50 is synthetic isn't it? Which conflicts with what "Alfa tuner said" Smile
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rsfruitbat
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My interpretation is that being synthetic doesnt preclude engine wear. Just because its not synthetic dont mean its no good. My own experience supports that.
At the end of the day buy what you want its your money.

rsfruitbat
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bobbber
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the boxer engine is quite tough in some respects (if you take out the poorly made tappet caps).

Anything from 5W/30 to 20W/50... semi to synthetic. Mineral later in the car's life if you like.

My 33IE had 158,000 on the clock... and I think only got there by having "High Mileage" oil. It shut up all sorts of noises and problems.... at least for a while!

Bob Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Main advantage of synthetics is meant to be that they do no need the large amount of additives to give a wide viscosity range. As it is these additives rather than the oil itself that wears out the synthetics should have a longer life.

There are also issues with mineral oils on turbo chargers.

All the best

Keith
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Lee
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I used to take my 16v to the main stealer years ago, they put in Selenia, thats only semi synthetic, dont know the rating though.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsfruitbat
didnt mean to offend, i read "He doesnt seek out synthetics as he says he has seen more wear when they are used " to mean that synthetics cause more wear.
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rsfruitbat
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that BigAl. I didnt really understand where you were coming from.
Anyway, VR-1. Doesnt have anything on label. Looked on web-site and it is listed seperately from Syntheics and normal oils.
Sorry dont know what it is. Once I get my engine running I'll let you know how it performs.

Rsfruitbat
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Scott Sander
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AR originally spec'd AGIP SINT 2000, as of 2007 it is still available.
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paulhide
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been heading more and more towards 20w50.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yer, i think i might give Valvoline VR-1 Racing 20/50 a try this time.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

anyone heard of
motul 6100 synergie+ 10w40 http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/MOTUL/6100-Synergie-10W-40-8394-%28GB%29.pdf
It is for diesel and petrol. I was told that most new diesel engines have the same bottom end as petrol which is why there is oil for diesel and petrol.
Comments anyone?
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Oggie
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use the Valvoline race oil as specified by Ahm, Adie from Ahm said he has never seen any problems whilst using this oil with any of his race built engines which given the extra stress of his engines it must be good for any i guess, anyway you can buy it at euro car parts for around £30 for 5 litres. And just another point I have done over 12000 miles on this oil with no issues but there again I change the oil at every 1000 miles (not that it needs it) just done as a precautionary.
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baldy
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew Page do a semi sinthetic oil 15/50 made by comma, never had any problems with it and it only costs 17.99 for 5 litres Lee
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oggie that’s £360 on average for 12000 miles a year, based on 5L, I think ours use 5.1L, you must be loaded Laughing
With a race engine do they change the oil every 1 or 2 races? Would you be able to see if any problems arose?
This oil malarkey is a tricky business, based on this guide in the
"Viscosity and Viscosity Index (VI)."
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
Should 20w 50 be ok for summer and stick to the recommended 10w 40 for winter?
I am still confused with the rating and worried about deviating from the recommended 10w 40
I normally change my oil after all those cold damp winter starts and again after the summer.
Advice welcome
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bobbber
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think this subject is over-discussed if I'm honest.

I think a semi 10w40, 15w50 mineral when old.

That's about it really.... you guys worry too much! Laughing

Just make sure you get a quality brand... comma is better than people think.

Bob
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know oils that say they have same rating are supposed to be equal, but if that was the case it would be made by one manufacturer and sold under different names. It isn’t, it’s made by several different companies that spend a lot on research and development. Look at the difference from 20 years ago, when it was acceptable to ad additives, but now it’s not necessary. Bearing this in mind what was recommended when our cars came out might not be best now a day.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Dubious as to whether it was ever acceptable to add additives.

How many people have ever had an engine failure due to poor quality oil?

Personally I used to use BP oil as I could get it at a decent price (~20 for 20 litres of mineral oil, ~£45 for 20 litres of semi synthetic and ~£75 for 16 litres of fully synthetic) but that supplier has now switched to Rock Oil.

All the best

Keith
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bobbber
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keith's right (as usual Laughing )...

I don't think additives have ever been a very good idea... there are lots of lawsuits being raised in the USA based upon claims of premature engine wear using these things.

Bob
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't and don't think i will ever use additives
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