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[quote="Dr A. 33 1.5IE"]Dear all, Once again I need your help. A lot of stuff has been done over the last couple of weeks... I just found out that the used lambda sensor that my mechanic installed fried up the new cat I had installed about 6 months ago ... not an original of course. A used cat replaced the other one and readings are just perfect. The problem still remains that the car does not pull nice and gradually and the idle is not 100% stable... it fluctuates a bit! I have replaced the idle valve with a couple of newish ones, i have replaced almost brand new sparks with new ones, newer spark plug wiring, newer ignition coils, throttle switch, non-return fuel valves and pressure regulator, crank sensor, checked fuel pump that is ok, newer air temp sensor, checked the blue switch (water temp sensor)... and still the problem is there! Please please please what else can i do? Chears[/quote]
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<table border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1" width="100%" class="forumline"> <tr> <th class="thCornerL" width="22%" height="26">Author</th> <th class="thCornerR">Message</th> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row1"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>Dr A. 33 1.5IE</b></span></td> <td class="row1" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 11:21 am<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">33bits thanks for your message. <br /> <br />I have already installed a much newer fuel pump and fuel pressures checked. <br /> <br />I do not know what else to check!!!</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row2"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>33bits</b></span></td> <td class="row2" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 3:02 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">One of the most common parts i sell on the series 3 33 is the fuel pump, very common part to break, i think its always worth fitting a new one just to have peace of mind. Someone i know has a few new ones for sale at £35 each.</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row1"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>Dr A. 33 1.5IE</b></span></td> <td class="row1" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:09 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Dear Thanassis, <br /> <br />Nothing has been changed. The last thing that I checked was the ecu relay next to the fuel pump relay. When I opened the metal cover on top of the coil there was a melted plastic piece that half of it fell off. I removed the rest very carefully and the only changed on car's behaviour was that the power cuts are still there but shorter in time. <br /> <br />Changing that relay which proved burned out the only thing I have managed to find out was that this drop of plastic melted on the relay's coil is there intentionally to hold the coil's wire in place! <br /> <br />Anyway I do not know what to do. Finally a couple of days ago I managed to find the relay responsible for the fuel settings. Mine is a Black colored relay sitting on a brown base. Next to it is another relay grey in color. The funny thing is that all three relays do have the S30 code under there casing. <br />Removing those relays improved the hicups a little. <br /> <br />I am really desperate to sort it out but at the same time as it runs relatively well and it starts at least everyday, I will just live with it until i get a new car (meaning when I will win the lotto!!!) <br /> <br />Any ideas are welcomed. <br /> <br />By the way the gaskets under the manifolds have been replaced. It does not looks like an air leak... I think! <br /> <br />Chears my friend</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row2"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>gritsop</b></span></td> <td class="row2" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2009 3:53 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Any progress on the issue? <br /> <br />Regards,</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row1"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>gritsop</b></span></td> <td class="row1" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 8:56 am<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">If I remeber correctly your 33 is distributorless, correct? There is a sensor on the flywheel that reads crankshaft position and feeds the data to the ECU. Since you tell that the car does not pick up under acceleration it looks like it is out of timing. Since timing is adjusted from this sensor then focus on it. <br /> <br />Morever there is a chance the problem lies on air leaks. There is a gasket right below the intake manifold. Again if this gasket is by any reason cracked or falling apart false air will disturb correct running. <br /> <br /><img src="http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/7285/hpim0760v.jpg" border="0" /> <br /> <br />It is a long shot but worth mentioning <br /> <br />Regards</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row2"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>Dr A. 33 1.5IE</b></span></td> <td class="row2" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 11:50 am<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Dear friends, <br /> <br />The fight to sort out my Alfa has come to an end with the problem still remaining. <br /> <br />The car spent the last two months at the garage, a hell of a lot of things were changed and tested but the mechanic has not found the cause of my problems. <br /> <br />As a last and desperate measure asking for your help, I repeat the issues that the car develops. <br /> <br />Under acceleration the car in all gears (at a lesser extent in 5th gear on a motorway) develops some cuts in power as if one moment the power is on and the next moment you can feel and hear the engine holding back a bit. Also under full acceleration the car revs a bit slower towards the rev limiter although the engine sounds alright. In addition on a motorway with 5th gear, before the problem appeared, flooring the gas pedal gave the car decent acceleration getting easily above 140kms/hr (even up hill). Now on the straight it takes ages to get up to speed and uphill the engine note changes but the speedometer stays stuck at the current speed (with a very little tendency to increase the current speed). All these get a bit better with the aircon off. <br /> <br />And still we could not find the cause of this loss in power. <br /> <br />What could it be my friends? <br /> <br />Thanks once more for your time...</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row1"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>Dr A. 33 1.5IE</b></span></td> <td class="row1" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 6:39 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Dear Thanassis, <br /> <br />You are correct ... the voltage values were actually 0.45V on idle and 0.15V when fooling the ECU that the lambda runs properly. Actually the lambda does fluctuates between 0.2 and sometimes 1V on most cars but a new lambda should have minimal deviations from 0.15-0.2V. <br /> <br />Anyway I should have the new lambda and cat installed later this week so I should be back with an update. <br /> <br />Thanks</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row2"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>gritsop</b></span></td> <td class="row2" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:46 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Hi, <br /> <br />Just a few notes here. <br /> <br />L sensor reads about ~ 0.45V on idle. The voltage fluctuates when the revs are high and should have a range from as low as 0.2V to as high as 0.8 V as the sensor understands that the gases are either coming from a lean or a rich mixture. The voltage doesnt exceed 1 V no matter what otherwise the mixture is very rich, thus no combustion can take place. <br /> <br />I dont get the idea with the battery. The L sensor has two connectors <br /> <br />1. Black connector which is always 12 V at the terminals in order to drive the preheating device <br />2. single connector which feeds the ECU with data. <br /> <br />Did you have constant power to the heating device and then "play around" with the battery and the resistors in order to fool the ECU? (actually play the role of fluctuating between 0.2 and 0.8 V) <br /> <br />Did you see voltage above 1 V as I am getting confused about that. <br /> <br />The catalyst shouldnt be removed. Unburnt aromatic hydrocarbons are the cause of carcinogenesis that the catalyst converts to harmless substances, so it is not a good idea to do so. <br /> <br />Regards,</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row1"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>Dr A. 33 1.5IE</b></span></td> <td class="row1" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 9:08 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Hello everyone, <br /> <br />News update... with a friend of a friend we decided first of all to check the continuity of the lambda sensor cables just to find out that the wiring is just fine (for your info by sorting the lambda's sender wires the sort could be read by the pins 7 and 24 on the ECU connector... if anyone wants to repeat a similar testing please remone the black wire from the battery to avoid damaging the ECU). <br /> <br />Then and after warming up the car to running temp we meassured the voltage of the lambda sender which when cold the voltage read staedily 4.5 volts and as soon as it was warming up started to drop and all of a sudden it started to fluctuate between 0.5 and 8 volts continuously. Thus the lambda sensor already changed with a new one three weeks ago has to be replaced once again (more money to spend). <br /> <br />To be sure about it we also tried another idea that is to fool the ECU. Knowing that the lambda draws when fylly warmed up and in operation 1.5 volts, using a few resistors and a 1.5volt AAA battery, plus an old lambda sender connector we created a little circuit that through the car's battery was giving out 1.5 volts and what a miracle the car run as it should!!! <br /> <br />Anyway I hope it works this time. The little circuit did. <br /> <br />Another question I have for you though is someone dropped the idea of keeping the lambda sensor but droping the catalyst at least until the next MOT in two years time from now. What do you think about it? Does anyone has got rid of the cat and still the car goes through a MOT without a problem? <br /> <br />Chears once again!</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row2"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>paulhide</b></span></td> <td class="row2" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 12:13 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Thanassis knows his stuff.</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row1"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>gritsop</b></span></td> <td class="row1" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 12:59 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Hi, <br /> <br />Fuel delivery can be a clue about your engine stalling problems. <br /> <br />Have you ever had the fuel tank cleaned ? In case rust deposits accumulate on the bottom, then the pump would have a hard time sucking petrol from the tank. There is a small plastic bag on the end of the fuel sender unit which in case it breaks, then all deposits will end to the pump internals. I have seen such case in a Fiat Fiorino where the bag had many big openings and gradually all deposits ended inside the fuel pump. The car would stall, fire up with difficulty etc. We had the pump cleaned by putting it on 12V and a can of petrol so that it would self clean with petrol. The petrol turned from yellow to nearly black; bought a new plastic bag and the car now runs perfectly. <br /> <br />In case you decide to replace the fuel pump, then it is wise to see what is going on inside the tank. Should there be deposits or a failing plastic bag, the new pump will be ruined quite shortly. <br /> <br />Hope this helps.</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row2"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>Dr A. 33 1.5IE</b></span></td> <td class="row2" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 11:16 am<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Hi everyone, <br /> <br />The steering pump works fine but I am a bit worried about the fuel pump. <br /> <br />With car running, sticking my ear on the rear left wing of the car, closer to the rear bumper, I can hear the fuel pump working, but when there are some cuts in idle, the pump changes note, the pump's rotor increases its revs and I can hear sounds as if the pump cuts during operation or as if air bubbles are coming through it. <br /> <br />What you reckon about this new finding? <br /> <br />Thanks in advance</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row1"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>BigAl</b></span></td> <td class="row1" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:08 am<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">To test for this, just remove the belt for the PS Pump, be prepaired for a work out when test driving <img src="images/smiles/icon_smile.gif" alt="Smile" border="0" /></span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row2"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>paulhide</b></span></td> <td class="row2" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:47 am<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Yes a faulty power steering pump could definitely strain the engine. I had this once when the system developed a leak and there was hardly any fluid. The pump became noisy and the car kept stalling until I sorted it out.</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row1"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>Dr A. 33 1.5IE</b></span></td> <td class="row1" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:07 am<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Dear all, <br /> <br />Thanks very much for your suggestions and your help that is mostly appreciated... <br /> <br />I am still searching to find the faulty bit that does not allow the car to run properly... <br /> <br />The idle is not stable but better than before, the car shakes on idle because you can feel that it cuts and stutters and of course while in gear and below 4000 rpm in any gear (in a lesser extent in 5th) the car pulls unevenly with sudden bursts of power and sudden cuts of power!!! <br /> <br />As i have mentioned before almost every electronic component has been replaced from another donor Alfa that run properly with no success. <br /> <br />My question now has to do with timing... could the car run with slightly not correct timing or it wouldn't run at all? <br /> <br />Also could a faulty steering wheel hydraulic pump cause such a problem and if so how can I check it? <br /> <br />Please any suggestion is always welcome <br /> <br />Thanks very much</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row2"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>frenchy</b></span></td> <td class="row2" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 12:01 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">the best way to check the loom is to get a wire diagram of the ecu plug and stick a multimeter in the relevet pin(s). <br /> <br />e.g. if you have a plug with 2 pins at the sensor end, join those 2 pins with wire or paperclip etc.. then test for continuity at the ecu plug end. if you get a good result then both wires are ok. <br />if not then you need to test each wire on it's own. you may have to extend one of the probes from the 'meter to reach the plug end of the wire. <br />i have some long (4m) single wires with mini crocodile clips on the ends that i use. <br /> <br />sometimes i test the resistance of the wires too, as continuity doesnt allways mean a strong signal. <br /> <br />on the example above, the test shouldn't take you more than 20mins for both wires. <br /> <br />testing the (resistance of the) sensor at the same time is a good idea and doing a resistance and or continuity test on any earth points is also a wise move. <br />you'll need the tech info to know if the sensor's readings are within range. <br /> <br />good luck.</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row1"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>bobbber</b></span></td> <td class="row1" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 9:33 am<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Yes, I NEVER trust new things. These are just two real-world examples that happened to me : <br /> <br />Car wouldn't start, my NEW relay was mis-manufactured at the factory. <br /> <br />Car overheats, probably my NEW thermostat isn't working correctly. <br /> <br />I have many other examples, but these others are to do with NEW/FAULTY computer and electrical components. Also, as Paul said at SPA, a lot of parts for the 33, while "NEW" (i.e. unused) have probably been hanging around for years on some shelf somewhere. <br /> <br />B</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row2"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>paulhide</b></span></td> <td class="row2" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 8:52 am<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Big Al bought a new Bosch lambda probe and it was faulty! <br />ECU?</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row1"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>Dr A. 33 1.5IE</b></span></td> <td class="row1" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 8:19 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Thanks for your reply frency... <br /> <br />I just got the car back from the garage and still the problem remains... the car pulls with some hiccups and not nice and straight... <br /> <br />The idle stability improved a lot but the exhaust gases come out the rear silencer not in a continuous stream of air! <br /> <br />Listen to that though, removing the one of the two lambda sensor connectors and the car pulls in a better manner with no judder at all. I did not remove the preheating wire of the sensor but I will try it tomorow so as check if things improve a bit. <br /> <br />So as the lambda sensor is a brand new one by Bosch could it be the wiring of the main loom ? <br /> <br />What is the best way to check the wiring? <br /> <br />Thanks a lot for your ideas</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row2"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>frenchy</b></span></td> <td class="row2" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 12:31 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">you can check for air leaks in a few ways. the easiest way is to rev the car up from idle by pulling the throttle cable by hand and use a plant mister (them plastic bottles with the trigger on them) and spray a fine mist of water near joints. try no to soak everything while doing this.. it doesnt work on a windy day if you outside. <br /> <br />the water mist will get sucked into any air leaks. <br />have you tested the afm for resistance? <br />and i'd recheck the landa sensor too. <br /> <br />you could also check the engine loom (the wires) from the various sensors back to the ecu. this takes a while but if you have a borken wire or some poor contacts, this test will show it up. <br />i'd do this after checking the other stuff first. <br /> <br />by the way, a compression test does not test leaks from the intake manifold.. it just checks the pistons, rigns, valves, head gasket and head. sounds like you had a good result here anyway. <br /> <br />good luck.</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row1"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>Dr A. 33 1.5IE</b></span></td> <td class="row1" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 10:10 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">I will I promise...</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row2"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>Guest</b></span></td> <td class="row2" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 9:57 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Hi, <br /> <br />vacuum line to brake booster on the driver side under the manifold. <br />vacuum line to sensor doesn't exist if your car has an AFM <br /> <br /><span style="font-weight: bold">but</span> did you renew the manifold gaskets? one on each side, under the manifold. New ones must be installed whenever the manifold is removed <br />And i guess your manifold has been removed for thermostat replacement. <br /> <br />regards, <br />zp</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row1"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>Dr A. 33 1.5IE</b></span></td> <td class="row1" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 7:27 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">ZP thanks, <br /> <br />Question: which one is the brake amplifier tubing and the vacuum sensor??? <br /> <br />All the rest I am sure are already checked and appear alright (the fuel vapour canister was removed under the front left wing apron and cleaned as well ), the idle tubing checked, intake tubing ok and vacuum tubing under the intake manifold also checked!!! <br /> <br />Thanks a lot...</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row2"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>Guest</b></span></td> <td class="row2" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 7:19 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody"></span> <table width="90%" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="3" border="0" align="center"> <tr> <td><span class="genmed"><b>Quote:</b></span></td> </tr> <tr> <td class="quote">did your mechanic remove the inlet manifold to replace the termostat? If yes new gaskets are almost mandatory otherwise an air leak is likely to arise.</td> </tr> </table> <span class="postbody"> <br /> <br />1st thing to check. inlet manifold must be airtight. Clean mating surfaces and renew gaskets, torque down to specified value. <br />Check for cracks and renew if required : <br />- air duct between throttle body and AFM <br />- vacuum hose to brake amplifier (check that amplifier is airtight, too) <br />- vacuum hose to idle regulator <br />- vacuum hose to fuel pressure regulator (hidden behind/under manifold) <br />- vacuum hose for fuel canister (emission control models only) <br />- vaccum hose to vacuum sensor (only fitted on later vehicles without AFM) <br />- injector O-rings <br />Those are basic checks and suspected hoses and gaskets shall be renewed whenever the slightest wear is detected. <br /> <br />regards, <br />zp</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="22%" align="left" valign="top" class="row1"><span class="name"><a name=""></a><b>Dr A. 33 1.5IE</b></span></td> <td class="row1" height="28" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td width="100%"><img src="templates/subRed/images/icon_minipost.gif" width="12" height="9" alt="Post" title="Post" border="0" /><span class="postdetails">Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 7:16 pm<span class="gen"> </span> Post subject: </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><hr /></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><span class="postbody">Alex hello and thanks for your answer, <br /> <br />My mechanic checked the compression of each cylinder and found everything normal (that is an indication that there is no leak from the intake manifold). Also after changing the fuel pressure regulator and the non-return valve he also checked fuel pressure and he claimed all to be normal. <br /> <br />I do not know what else to look for.... <br /> <br />About the vacuum tubing how can I check if there is a leak other than a visible crack? <br /> <br />Cheers once again!!!</span></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" height="1" class="spaceRow"><img src="templates/subRed/images/spacer.gif" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></td> </tr> </table>
