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[quote="BigAl"]man that sucks, sorry to hear about the belt going :([/quote]
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Topic review
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The Wombat
Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 8:27 pm
Post subject:
lol!!
Did a bit of investigation today, and looking down the throttle bodies, I found one of Number 1 cylinder inlet valve heads in the inlet port, so its pretty fooked!!
So, decided that the P4 thing is on. I got the spare engine out of the shed, gave it a clean, and put a set of new belts and idlers on. Needs a bit more cleaning, and I will build it up over the next day or so with the spare P4 box as I strip the other engine ready to drop out.
Planning to run the P4 box in 2wd until I get the boot floor sorted and rear axle/brakes installed. It should act as a normal 2wd box until then
There is a bit of welding to do as well, brackets for the VCU, the boot floor itself, and while I have the tank out, I need to do the rear quarter round the filler neck (the P4 I am stripping has a perfect one surprisingly).
Will do a few pics tomorrow of the start of this process.
BigAl
Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 7:36 pm
Post subject:
If it can happen with protection, there's no point in having any lol
lee16v
Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 6:48 pm
Post subject:
That is bad luck.
Silver lining is that it will spur you on to doing the P4 project.
Al. Worried about your belts with no protection?
BigAl
Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 3:44 pm
Post subject:
man that sucks, sorry to hear about the belt going
The Wombat
Posted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 10:01 pm
Post subject:
Yes, the timing belts had full protection. All the cases were in place, so this was really unlucky. The alternator belt seemed to split along its length and parts of it fired into the narrow gap between the engine and the belt cases.
Thanks for the thoughts on the suspension. Once I have got the engine and P4 set-up done, I will check everything and make sure it has been put together correctly.
Bobkelso
Posted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 8:56 pm
Post subject:
What a hard luck with that belt..
Just to understand, was the motor without timing belt protections
or it is possible it happens something similar in every 33?
As it is a bit a frighting accident for an alternator belt failure..
For the ride height:
-difference between OS and NS should be equal at front and rear,
if not I suspect the position of one bumper is to be adjusted
or the terrain where you are measuring is not flat..
usually you get more accuracy measuring at the wheel arches
height that at bumper corners
-is you have difference between OS and NS height
first should verify is coil are same height and type NS and OT axe to axe
when free (and if I have understood you already have swapped in a new set of coils),
second are to check the height of the top rubber at the rear as BigAl suggested
and if the top rubber at the front are well mounted,
if you rotate one part of the front top mount assembly of 90°
respect the other parts you get a bad assembly of the top mount
(there is a small indent to respect but you can easily miss it)
and a strange position of one coil, so a 33 that doesn't sit flat (a difference OS-NS of about 2 cm),
I know for sure this is a possibility as my father did this error at least two times on his 33 and
I get my time to convince him to let me disassemble the front coils and top mounts to put it right
Another possibility is one yellow bearing (under the lower coil plate) at the front suspension that is broken,
in this case one coil and the lower coil plate are in a strange position that affect the height of the car at one side
- I think BigAl suggested all right about bushes, they have to be tightened when
suspension are loaded by the car weight to let bushes have minor stress
(in that way you reduce about at one half the rotation total excursion of the rubber part)
if you tight them when suspension are not loaded you can have in few
Kms bushes that are already broken in the rubber part and after this initial
damage they will get plays faster than if you mount them in the right way..
The Wombat
Posted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 7:57 pm
Post subject:
BigAl wrote:
Tightening the arm bushes whilst drooping wont affect the ride height. It just puts a twisting action on them constantly whilst sitting normally, leading to premature wear.
Ah ha. So what is impacting the ride height so badly? Any ideas appreciated.
Its a bit moot at the minute though. Today, the alternator belt started to squeal on the way home from a local trip. 3 miles from home, it broke and sent bits into the OS timing belt case. Timing belts are intact, but the engine won't turn over. I suspect the belt has jumped a tooth given the debris wrapped around the crank pulley, and I have a nice set of bent valves.
Have a 68k engine I can put in this week, and will now proceed with converting this to a P4 while its in bits.
BigAl
Posted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 10:26 am
Post subject:
Tightening the arm bushes whilst drooping wont affect the ride height. It just puts a twisting action on them constantly whilst sitting normally, leading to premature wear.
The Wombat
Posted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 8:28 pm
Post subject:
Put a set of P4 springs on which are about 1cm shorter and a tiny bit softer.
Forgot to check the top rubbers so will take a peak tomorrow.
Think I might do all the trailing arm bushes and try and get everything set up properly while I have it in bits.
BigAl
Posted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 5:21 pm
Post subject:
Did you swap over the springs, did you check the top rubbers for differing thickness?
The Wombat
Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 8:32 pm
Post subject:
Re-assembled everything, loosened and tightened all the rear bushes with the cars weight on the axle etc, let it down and...
It's still way lopsided.
Not driven it yet and assume it might settle a bit, but first impressions are not much of a difference.
will keep you posted.
BigAl
Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 1:03 am
Post subject:
Normal bushes should be tightened when flat, so jack up the car by the rear axle, not sure if the fronts need to have the same thing done, if so, jack up via the middle and use axle stands on the lower arms?
I think normally the drivers side sits higher, supposed to be that when the driver sits in it it is then level, this is achieved byt fitting a taller/ thicker rear top rubber. I think this is stupid, what if you have a passenger?
Have you checked the rubbers against each other?
The Wombat
Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 9:40 pm
Post subject:
Bit more mulling over the green SW today. Measured the ride height at each corner and its sitting a bit wonky. OS front 3cm higher than NS, and OS rear almost 6cm different. I suspected that the issue was caused by the OS rear lifting that side up and tilting the NS front down.
I needed to have the OS rear wheel off to do a bit of bodywork on the front of that wheel arch (small plate at the bottom of the arch, and a hole in the sill to patch, plus some cleaning and painting) so investigated the suspension at the same time. Also had some some new shocks toc install.
Interested in others experience of this as my white P4 doesn't sit flat either.
What I found is as follows:
- Took of both rear springs, and NS is slightly shorter than OS (just over 1cm)
- OS spring was on upside down (as best as I can tell, anyway, they were both opposite ways up)
- NS bottom control arm body end nut and bolt were very very loose.
My thoughts are that the springs being different lengths plus installed different side to side probably cause the bulk of the issue, but I am also wondering if the position the control arms are when they are tightened might also have an impact. They are resistive bushes, which the centre tube held tight in the bracket when the nut/bolt are tight. It would then make sense that if you were to install and tighten with the suspension at full droop, the rotation that occurs as the car settles would be resisted by the bushes, so the car would sit higher. On the other hand, if you jacked the back of the car up in the centre of the axle so the suspension was in the normal position for the weight of car, the car would sit lower.
therefore, if one side was done different from the other, it would cause the car to not sit level.
Any thoughts on this?
Admin
Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 8:46 pm
Post subject:
Hi
Looks pretty good.
One of my bikes is J361XAR
All the best
Keith
The Wombat
Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 2:39 pm
Post subject:
Chrs John. Both front doors have evidence of attempted theft, and the drivers doorhas a few holes in the bottom.
As it needs paint, i have a set of champagne doors in perfect condition which I think its time to use.
Rear doors have rhe odd scan at the bottom, but can be prepped and treated!
john 33_16v
Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 8:39 am
Post subject:
Nice! - The mirto green is the best colour
Which is the bad door? I have a good nsf spare in green but the paint is crazed- rush job respray with primer too thick
John
Ian M
Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 9:21 pm
Post subject:
You are a glutton for punishment sir!
Looks like a good buy though
Wish I had the space and the time.....and an understanding wife
The Wombat
Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 8:55 pm
Post subject: Sport wagons!!
You may know that I have a series 2 1.7 QV SW. Needs a little work which I hope to get to during the summer, but looks like a lovely car.
Recently I swapped my blue 1.7 8v s3 for a burgundy series 3 16v SW, which is likely to become a permanent 4, but probably not until next summer the way things are going.
Well, yesterday I acquired another. A metallic green 16v series 3 i.e. It has been owned by Dee on the 155 forum, who kindly agreed to part with it after doing a huge amount of restoration work on the underside - it really is a work of art.
Here it is with Dee, about to depart Dundee after getting up early to catch the train from Huntingdon.
Dee pointed out that it has been off the road since 2006, and bringing it back to life via a 400 mile journey down from Dundee might entail some risk. However, it got me back safe and sound at 1am this morning.
As seems the tradition with selling 33s, this came with 2 bootloads of spares (first delivered by Volvo last weekend). Some real hens teeth stuff as well - unbroken hatchback and SW rear light clusters (several sets), heads, cams, an alcantara recaro interior etc.
Had to do a lot of emptying when I got up.
Did a bit of tinkering with it today. Assessing some bits of bodywork that need doing (underside perfect, but will need paint to tidy it up, as various dings and dents, a few rust spots, and a bad door), and started to put a fabric recaro interior in it. Door cards and nardi bits so far, maybe seats at the weekend!
I now officially am maxed out on 33s. Plans for all of them, but for sanity's sake, it is possible the S2 might be sold when I have completed the work and got it back on the road.