Alfa Pages

Hi G.

If the car is running ok with the premium fuel, then ther should be no problem. It can be one if the car spends a lot of its time in an urban setting (away from open roads) where the slower s ...

Hi KLC,

Just take note of the following:

When first installing the heads, make sure each head bolt has a smear of oil on the contact surface (not the thread).

After starting, run engine until ...

Hi All,

A few years ago I scrapped my 1985 33/1.5 Green Cloverleaf and sold of a variety of bits, even through this site.

I still have a number of parts that I would be happy to let go of. No lo ...

Hi Richard,

It has been a LONG while since I last visited this site. No longer having a 33 I guess has been one reason.

Your late 85 model would be a straight leaded version and unlikely to have ...

Sorry - I don't mean to make you dizzy with technical mumbo-jumbo! It's often a habit I find hard to shake.

You should have no problems driving anywhere and at any speed. Just keep an eye on the ...

The oil residue is consistent with the colour of engine oil that has been exposed to high temperature BEFORE it got to where it is, then has been hardened by the surrounding air temp from the exhaust ...

Since it's worse when cold, but settles when revved hard, it is, as Carlos says, a likely electrical / electronic problem. Cold running problems can be due to something as simple as the coolant temper ...

If you look at the join between the head and block, near the exhaust manifold, you will see what appears to be the start of the leak. It is possible the leak is from the head gasket along the line bet ...

It sounds like there may be an air leak in the system since the replacement. Is it possible that something has been cracked (at the engine pipe end where the manifold is bolted) or the O2 sensor has b ...

Hi.

The models that appear to have a vac advance unit were the Series 1 33s. The 1985 Greens had lost the unit because better calibration and control by the ignition module, and that the mechanical ...

Mis-timed belt? One tooth out might cause a drop in power but would be noticeable in all power ranges, as well as unusual idle noise from the exhaust. It would not lead to tappet noise of the type you ...

Burgo,

Check out what Rob describes, but the problem is probably in the central locking control relay or the wiring to it. More likely the control unit itself though. I would start with this first ...

The lifter - if it is sticking, should be louder when the engine is first started. If it was stiff at the time you had it out, it is unlikely that using a crankcase cleaner will make much difference. ...

Now the story is clear!

It is possible the pivot pin is broken or it has punched a hole in the fork. You won't know for sure until the thing is pulled apart.

THe over-run is normal, but it depends on the pitch/note of this popping. Certainly, the carbs would need to be synchronised by someone who has a 4-tube manometer. A scope can never help in this area. ...

The reason the cyl is dry and there is no puddle on the ground is that a vacuum exists in the line, causing fluid to be drawn back into master cylinders. Air is drawn back into the slave cylinder via ...

You obviously have the Limited edition that came with the special feature called 'Interactive Electrics'.

If the knee-activated switch you have been using is effective, then you have localised the ...

Thanks Carlos.

I obviously missed something. I agree with you - the pads are the problem. All too often I have to deal with poor materials being used on things like brake pads and clutches. Here in ...

The noise when turning could be the flat roller bearings located under the strut springs. A common fault. It could also be worn CV joints (outer) on at least one side. Worn bushes in the leading and t ...

If the brake proportioning valve and its assembly are ok, then check using a static weight attached to the hook to the left (from the rear) of the assembly. Attach a 6kg weight, after loosening the ho ...

As far as I know, the are the same. Ring gears can be hard to locate for most Alfas; often the best solution is to replace the whole flywheel or get a new after-market model (though not a lightened on ...

As well as what Keith recommends, take careful note of the position of the top engine mount. Ensure that the engine is re-fitted to the same point, as this can affect other relative angles, such as th ...

THe shims you describe are anti-squeal devices that should normally be fitted, however if the vehicle is serviced regularly, then pad wear can be noted. It is better to have them though.

Either way ...

THe extra thermoswitches / sensors on the 33 are refinements of the Sud setups, in that by 1985, Alfa had begun to catch up to the idea that coolant temp, engine oil temp, air temp and engine response ...

The fast idle compensator solenoid creates an over-run state when de-throttling. It holds the revs at about 2,000 for a couple of seconds. Not an issue at this stage of the game if it doesn't work. Co ...