Alfa Pages

[Pimp_Dudu]

Hi i have, yet again, another problem. This car is the best...but frankly im starting to get a bit pissed bout its little annoying problems. The first is that my Brake Fluid light on my dash board keeps lighting up every once in a while if im going on an uphill, or if i accelarate fast. And the amount of the fluid is just right. So something's wrong with the sensor...but what can it be. The second problem is that my ALFA CONTROL SYSTEM is going completely crazy. Sometimes the warining light of low freezing fluid lights up, when there is freezing fluid. And then when i turn the car off and start again it stops shining. Secondly the lights on the control system that warn about the head, parking and tail lights keep on shining recently. What does this mean. All my lights work perfectly!!!!! And the worse problem is that i think my right "pointer" light doesnt work when i pull the swith to the right. I push the turn swith to the right and then nothing happens. when i pull it to left it works perfectly. But to the right it just works for a while and stops blinking. Anywyas if anybody has similiar problems and can tell me how to fix em i'd be really really happy. Thnx

[Marcin]

Hi,

about the brake fluid warning light - there is also a connection to your front brake pads. The light comes on when the pads exceed their wear limit. My brake warning light comes on with new pads and full brake fluid reservoir - how about that?
The alfa control system is notorious for being a pain in the a.s. I mean the lights coming on for no reason. The cause may be a bad electrical connection somewhere on the way from alfa control to your lights for example, which makes alfa control think your lights are broken. A solution might be the cleaning all connections from oxidation - if you have too much spare time. Otherwise just live with it... or get rid of it.

Marcin

[Matt Stolton]

The brake light indicator problem on slopes, is where the level in the fluid reservoir is sloshing about, so the indicator picks up a low level. I had it on my '1.7 ti' , where the drop in fluid from wear in the pads was enought o set it off. It is worth topping it up a little, even slightly above MAX (1-2mm is all is required).

Regarding the coolant level sensor, the main problem is the float on the end of the metal rod. it is supposed to float on water, but can, over time, become porous and absorbs water. It then stops floating, and the light comes on. The way it works is that the metal rod pushes into the body of the sensor, which features a reed switch. Proximety of the top of rod to the inside of sensor keeps the light off. You may have crud stopping the rod from being as close to the sensor as it needs to. It does come aprt with a small flat screwdriver, and a little care.

Regarding the lights indicator, the way it works is by measuring current/ voltage between your stop lights. If there is a difference the light comes on. This is normally caused by a blown lamp. However, if one contact is dirty, or more commonly, the lamps are not identical, this can set the light off. The advice is to by two lamps at the same time , and replace both simultaneously.

Regarding the indicators, I would guess you have dirt in the indicator stalk, which is affecting the turn right signal. To change/ remove the switch is a sod, as you have to remove the steering wheel, but try some contact cleaner (I use Servisol) as it is easier. I had a fault which was intermittent, and came and went. This ended up being a broken Lucas connector in/under the fuse box, so is worth checking. Also, take the fuses out, contact clean the contacts (servisol, and a little sand paper/emery cloth) and gently bend the contacts to get a tighter grip on the fuses. After that, all you can do is trace wires, and make sure the connectors and wires are good. One thing to check is the 2 white 12 way connectors in the bulkhead. One half has male connectors in, with a 4 way split metal pin making up each male prong. Over time these 4 bits squidge together, and loose the force of coantact on the female counterpart. Being very careful, as they will snap easily, gently prise a little gap between each of the four parts. It need only be a hairs width of a gap, but it can make a huge difference to conductance.

Have fun. I know you are suffering from the usual 33 gremlins, but don't loose faith. Just pull up at some traffic lights, next door to something expensive and quick, and cain it off of the lights. It reminds you why you got a 33 in the first place. My favourite thing to do is BMWs....
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Regards

Matt

Ex Alfa 33 'GTA' (P4 with Knobs On)
Now cruising in a 166 3.2 Ti!!

[James Granger]

We had a similar problem with our right hand side indicator. We replaced the relay flasher unit (small black box which makes the clicking sound), and the problem was solved. This part takes a while to find as it is up underneath the dashboard towards the central console.