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[knight]

Have just heard about a 1.8 8v engine making 168bhp with a pair of 344 Lake cams........big valve ported heads 48IDF's etc.......I have googled lake cams but cant find any details for them whatsoever - can anyone help?

[richard33]

Possibly this is Fox Lake in the USA - www.foxlakeracing.com

They specialise in porting heads, but seem to do cams for specific applications.
If the 344 denotes the duration, they are hairy race cams !

[Edward]

Hi,

I have exactly 168 hp from my engine - and that was on a low reading rolling road.

There are special cams in the heads, that were from JE in the states. I was quoted £600 by the engine builder, he ordered a set and then my eyes watered when the bill arrived for £1300. Well, I suppose there are four of them. Needless to say I wasn't best pleased with the engine builder!
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The faster the better.

[Rich B]

Have you tried looking at some Colombo and Bariani cams? They're an Italian company and do both race and fast road cams for 8v and 16v 33s.
Web address www.colombo-bariani.com.
A supplier in the UK is www.gazzella.cc (or EB Spares www.ebspares.co.uk are an agent for them too but don't generally do boxer engined stuff)

Hope that helps (set of 4 cams for 16v are about £600 +vat)

[Rees Cees]

I have the C&B's in my racecar (the shapest ones) but I advice the less sharper because you get more tork out of them.

[Edward]

Is that the race car with carbs? What sort of power / torque can you arrive at with carbs.

I have 168 with fuel injection - but it is a pain to live with, I would really rather have carbs I think - you don't have to worry about so many sensors and which one is giving a poor reading.

Edward.
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The faster the better.

[Matt Stolton]

We have now worked out that the cams in my P4 project are the C&B "old style" race cams! Sounds daft, but these are in, what will be, my daily runabout. I think these are hotter than the ones mentioned on the C&B website, with an extra 1mm of lift and quite a bit more duration, as we enquired about getting some more of the ones I have, and C&B said they don't make them that hot any more!!

I have increased both inlet valves diameter (one larger than the other to follow the off set timing on the inlet lobes), and slightly increased both the exhausts (both same size outlets), along with some very sensible/clever porting of the heads.

In the car, before I wrote off the first chassis, with the standard 16V ECU, it idled nicely at 850-900 rpm and pulls from low in any gear, with only the slightest of pinking. Very useable day to day, but silly once "on cam"

One odd anomally I initially picked up on whilst running in, was the engine seems to come "on cam" twice, as expected at 4000 ish rpm, but then again at around 6250 rpm.

Gut reaction says about 160-170 BHP, with inlet tract/filter and exhaust mods too, but once mapped I am hoping to get past 180, and extend the red line to beyond 8K RPM.

The new shell is off for paint and new sills as I speak. Once thats back, the engine is built, and I hope to mate the two together by february. After that, we will be going to AH Motorsport for a piggy back chip and rolling road.

With the standard ECU, we have noticed that the engine runs very lean up the top end, but least that means there is plenty of air!! Once I get the map done i will post the results and some pics of the finished article. From when I drove the old chassis, it is very usable, with more than enough torque left to power the P4 arrangement, and be usuable.

One odd thing i did notice on the last incarnations only track day outing (Haynes motor Museum track) was Oil temp hit 120C after 10 laps. We are going to try using the oil to water heat exchange, I believe from a 156, thats bolts before the oil filter, much like the thermostatic senders to traditional oil to air cooler circuits. I am hoping this will warm the engine up to 90C quicker, and then once the water is at 90C, retain the oil at no more than 95C, keeping it at between 90-100C. Worst ways I will fit the thermostatic plate and a traditional oil to air, but I like the idea of warming the oil up to 90C as quickly as possible, as like i said, this is a day to day runabout as well as a silly track day car. Any comments or experiences from you race boys?
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Regards

Matt

Ex Alfa 33 'GTA' (P4 with Knobs On)
Now cruising in a 166 3.2 Ti!!

[Rees Cees]

you have to change the lifters from hydrolic to mechanic. *k refs cant keep up whit the "heavey"C & B's

change the hydrolic lifters for those of a renault clio (32mm)

[Edward]

Rees,

Do you have any power and torque figures for your carb car?

When you talk about changing lifters to Renault - is that a difficult job - does it include machining etc. Some more details would be good as I am just rebuilding my engine.

Thanks,

Edward.
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The faster the better.