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Toad · Alfasud Joined: 19 Mar 2003 Posts: 42

I've got a small issue with my sprint, Having got her running again, I've noticed she's going through .5 L of fuel in about 4 -6 minutes of running.

Anyone got any ideas? I'm guessing I'll have to strip and rebuild them
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john 33_16v · Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:26 pm Post subject:

Choke not shutting off fully???
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Toad · Alfasud Joined: 19 Mar 2003 Posts: 42

Choke cable is removed. so not that.
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Admin · Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 1:25 am Post subject:

Hi

Is that just idling, or under some kind of load (eg, dyno)?

All the best

Keith
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ZeNiTh-PbArM · Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 1:32 am Post subject:

Well, weber enrichment device design sucks. When the rubber seal deteriorates, an uncontrolled amount of fuel drains through this path, whatever the position of the choke cable. Things get worse when the leaks cause flooding of the engine, preventing it from starting (i know of an engine that wouldn't start at all unless some rags were stuffed in the barrel of the carbs)
Dellortoes carbs have superior starter design and i've never seen one fail.
regards,
zp

paulhide · Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:54 am Post subject:

Yep, if there is any misfire see if a carb is filling with petrol even when switched off. Failed rubber seal on Webers or debris in float valve on dellortos - take top off carb and play with the floats - also could be these not floating and therefore running rich??
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Eddie_W · Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:47 am Post subject:

I would suspect the floats but this should be visible with air filter off. Usually it will be the rear mains dribbling fuel, indicating way too high a fuel level. The Dellortos are prone to it when the floats are old but with Webers it would have to be a Pinhole leak in a solder joint.
Regards Eddie
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Toad · Alfasud Joined: 19 Mar 2003 Posts: 42

Right so I've carb rebuild kits ordered so I'll strip them down and do the whole lot. Shocked

My first time doing this anyone care to warn me of the pit falls Confused

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rsfruitbat · Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 10:07 am Post subject:

If you are sure you can remember how it all comes apart then take photo's or draw diagrams because you probably wont.
Haynes manual is good for diagram.
Tickover jets /idle adjustment jets are swines and usually seize in.
Dont use WD40 near rubber as it makes rubber seals swell and worsens situation.
One carb at a time so if you do forget you can check on the other one.
I strip the carb first then clean and refit jets and rubbers as I am rebuilding. This way you minimise puting a bit back in which has picked up dirt from somewhere else.
Once all the bits are off the carb then use WD 40 to squirt through all the jet locations to check they will flow liquid.
Once you have done all that wash everything over in petrol and then rebuild.
This is the way I do it. Not suggesting its right or perfect but it works for me.
rsfruitbat

Toad · Alfasud Joined: 19 Mar 2003 Posts: 42

One carb done last night, easily enough done but had to modify the Gaskets to match teh original ones.

Next one will be done next week, I must post up some photos of the work been carried out.
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Toad · Alfasud Joined: 19 Mar 2003 Posts: 42

Well got both done fitted them to the car, then realised we had taken the belts off in preparation for water pump and belt change Rolling Eyes

So it'll be next week before we have a chance to see if the carb rebuild has worked.

So next week the jobs are drain coolant, drain oil/petrol mix, refill, remove rad, remove pump, tensionsers, replace, fit belts.

Sounds easy don't it, I hope it is. looking forward to getting the pump out.

I've found a lot of IDF info out there on the VW bug sites. some interesting updates developed for the IDF and Delortto, may try those in the future.
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Toad · Alfasud Joined: 19 Mar 2003 Posts: 42

Sorted but forgot to post it up as it makes me a fool,

The carb return was still connected to the tank, and the feed was in a jerry can, so I was using the carbs to fill teh tank.

DOH!!
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