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A forum for help with the Alfasud And Alfa 33
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P4 Paul
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 23 Mar 2003
Posts: 114
Location: cambridge,uk
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 Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2003 3:28 pm Post subject: P4 4X4 Problems again!!!! |
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Having just had a brand new clutch,fork arm,tooth mesh sensor(yes!!i finaly found a place to get them),my 4x4 light went out for the first time,and i had 4 wheel drive  Then 2 days after this,i'm driving at about 90-100mph,braking very slightly,and the bloody light comes on,and stays on all the way home!!.So when i got home,i turned off the engine,then turned the ignition on,the light went out,then came back on after about 7-8 seconds?.i've looked under the bonnet,and my fuse was blown(30amp one,next to the relay)I replaced it,and guess what,yes,it blew again!!!.
Has anybody any ideas on this?  |
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tvatavuk
Gold Cloverleaf
Joined: 13 Mar 2003
Posts: 673
Location: Split, Croatia
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2003 3:02 pm Post subject: Re: P4 4X4 Problems again!!!! |
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| P4 Paul wrote: |
Having just had a brand new clutch,fork arm,tooth mesh sensor(yes!!i finaly found a place to get them),my 4x4 light went out for the first time,and i had 4 wheel drive Then 2 days after this,i'm driving at about 90-100mph,braking very slightly,and the bloody light comes on,and stays on all the way home!!.So when i got home,i turned off the engine,then turned the ignition on,the light went out,then came back on after about 7-8 seconds?.i've looked under the bonnet,and my fuse was blown(30amp one,next to the relay)I replaced it,and guess what,yes,it blew again!!!.
Has anybody any ideas on this? |
Just an idea?
you have short somewhere.
First place where I would start looking would be, under console, around gearbox tootmesh sensor.
It might be that when it was replaced, el.coupling wire which is near tooth mesh connector got pinched?
Tino
on Trek 820 powered by legs
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Tino Vatavuk
Little black dress which replaced Alfa Romeo 33 S 16v Permanent 4 GMo |
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P4 Paul
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 23 Mar 2003
Posts: 114
Location: cambridge,uk
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| Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2003 1:40 pm Post subject: Thanks Tino |
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thanks for the advice Tino,i looked under the gear stick,and the wire was rubbing on metal!!now its fine,no more blown fuses  and i have my 4x4 back
One more,well two more questions really,how much play in the rear propshaft support should there be?,as i get quite loud knocking even on slight corners at low speed!!.i've looked underneath,grabbed the rear prop,and managed to move it from side to side quite easily?.
Second question,when i rev my engine,at around 2000rpm,if i put my foot down very slightly,the rpm drops,and it coughs,and splutters,and nearly dies?below or past 2000rpm its fine.i also have a ticking noise somewhere?
Sorry for the long message. |
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tvatavuk
Gold Cloverleaf
Joined: 13 Mar 2003
Posts: 673
Location: Split, Croatia
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| Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2003 3:20 pm Post subject: Re: Thanks Tino |
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| P4 Paul wrote: |
thanks for the advice Tino,i looked under the gear stick,and the wire was rubbing on metal!!now its fine,no more blown fuses and i have my 4x4 back
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Congrats.
1. When you say you moved it from side to side you mean that you managed to move visco coupling inside second mount (big ring shaped mount).
Well you can move it with your hand all over ring but not quite easily, (unless you're green giant or go to much to gym)
Worn prop shaft joints will also produce knocking.
But usualy first thing it should be looked is bad positioning/mounting of visco coupling, or gearbox.
2.I know what I have to say to you, but it's not pleasant. Well here it goes. Now would be right time to start saving money for another 16v engine, or more expensive but better solution overhaul/rebuild of yours if it is except that in ok condition.
How much time do you have I don't know could be months, but more probably 2-3 years.
More you wait, more things you'll have to repair.
Well cheapest thing it could be is that those two symptoms aren't too much related, choking at 2k rpm, could be something like dirty valves, injectors, bad fuel, need for new fuel filter, clogged those little black plastic pipes that give fuel gases or air to idle solenoid/actuator, clogged idle solenoid, bad spark plugs, cables, distributor rotor... ignition coil
While clicking sound is clogged oil filter, very old oil, or not enough oil or wrong viscosity.
But unfortunately usually it is hydro-valve/tappet lifters with too little or to much oil pressure , or they are worn so they don't lift up and get back as they should, but camshaft hits them little by little, valves don't go up or down all the way, or don't close /open at needed time this at the end results in worn cams on camshaft, worn lifters, and even can lead to burned valves.
This is still somewhat ok , because after some time you can still, insert new lifters, need camshafts (or rebuild and harden them also), but it is pricy.
And worst case scenario, there is also leak of coolant at first it's small and you don't notice coolant level drop, it doesn't mix with oil so there is no mayo anywhere (coolant bottle, oil refilling neck or dipstick) and oil level doesn't rise.
Knocking can be traced with mechanic stethoscope which has metal end needle, of with putting peace of metal rod on engine and moving it around engine.
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Tino Vatavuk
Little black dress which replaced Alfa Romeo 33 S 16v Permanent 4 GMo |
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