Alfa Pages

[knighty]

I have just removed the big end caps from my 1.7 8v, which is a carbed hydraulic tappet engine, in order to inspect the bearing condition, as I have a tapping noise, I have a haynes manual for a 1.5 sud and the torque setting is 32-35 Lb/ft........is the torque figure the same for the 1.7????

also, I'm told the engine has done 90K miles........the bearings looked like new!!!

.

[RBL]

Personally I'd stick with the upper end of that setting unless there is an update in the supplement section at the back of the manual.

I got all my torque settings from the Haynes manual when I rebuilt my 1.7 8v. There other manauls available though - I'm sure someone will have a link for one.....
_________________
Porsche 550 spyder replica with Alfa Sprint 1.7 engine

[knighty]

thanks fella, just what I wanted to hear, I will take a look in the manual for for a supplement section, I think the upper value will be ok though.

I think it was your good self asking for pics of my boxer powered buggy, here you go, its a bit of a shed, but mechanically sound.....here gos:

[RBL]

thanks for posting pics - that looks like great fun!
_________________
Porsche 550 spyder replica with Alfa Sprint 1.7 engine

[gritsop]

Is it possible to upload photos of the engine area or the suspension setup. It would be interesting to see the the look of the setup.

Regards
_________________
Thanassis Gritsopoulos
1991 Alfa 33 1.4 IE
2001 Alfa 147 1.6 Distinctive

http://www.alfa-restoration.co.uk
Parts Shop: www.alfa-restoration.co.uk/shop

[knighty]

sorry I dont have pics.......the front suspension is VW beetle, lowered, a few torsion leaves removed, and have re-positioned the steering rack tie rods for minimal bump steer.......rear suspension is VW beetle swing arm......I run spax adjustable dampers front and rear........both front and rear suspension travel is only about 50mm.......tyres are 8" wide at front, 10" at rear, all 50 series profile.

your probably thinking "VW beetle suspension - yuck".......believe me, it now handles like on rails with literally no body roll - its perfect and embarrasses many little boys in hot hatches.

[Rich B]

I have the both the dealer manuals and the fuel injection engine manuals for the 33 and have so far found the following:

for 1.7 IE (sorry didn't realise yours was carbed until I started writing this, I'll check the figures but these will give you an idea):

bolts for main bearing caps to crankcase bearings (bottom of engine): 67 - 74NM or 6.8 - 7.5kgm

bolts attaching main bearing caps to crankcase (side ones): 41 -50 NM or 4.2 - 5.1 kgm

Hope that helps

I'll check the carb figures if you like...

[knighty]

Rich - many thanks, but thats the wrong bolts!........its the con-rod bolts I need to know.

I would also be interested to know the head bolt torques for the 1.7 8V hydraulic head if you have them?

thanks

[Rich B]

con rod bolts! Ah got ya! Ok no worries, I'll look it up for you...

[Rich B]

Right, here are the con rod bolt recommended torque settings:

As far as I can tell 1.7 and 1.5 carb cars have the same which are:

43 - 48nm / 4.4 -4.9 kgm / 31.8 - 35.4 ft lb

For interest, injected cars both 1.5 & 1.7 16v should be:

53 - 58nm / 5.4 -5.9kgm


Sorry forgot to look up head bolt torques, I'll post them tomorrow...

[Rich B]

ok, according to my manuals, here are the head bolt torque settings:

For carb: 81 - 87nm / 8.3 - 8.9kgm / 60 - 64.35ftlb

For Inj: 91 - 101nm / 9.3 - 10.3kgm


I have no idea why the figures are dfferent but thats as they appear in the manuals....


hope that helps

Cheers

Rich

[knighty]

Rich - many thanks for the data, thets very helpful of you.......as I need to change the hydraulic tappets and thats a heads-off job unfortunatley.......though its too cold now so I will just stuff my face with mince pies instead