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Brit01
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmm appears that the static idle of 9/10 was too much.

Was in heavy traffic last night and accelerating fast hearing pinging above 3000 rpm again.

Got home, lowered it back to 8. Was a bit sluggish off acceleration. Crying or Very sad

This is proving to be tricky.
I hope is not the secondary spring that needs replacing.
I believe its the sum of both of them that control the advance at higher revs.
So if I put a thicker primary spring in then it should lower the total advance.

I was reading this article with interest. He's basically using only 1 spring, second one used as a stop.
He says this produces a more linear curve.

I have a secondary spring that is very thick and would act a stop almost.

Distributor advance
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Considering sending my old bosch dizzy to H&H for a total rebuild and re-mapping service.

I need to find a donor dizzy.

Been offered one locally but its from a very early boxer (82 - unknown so far) and it has points.

I have an electronic version, 2 wire output.

How easy is it to get a points dizzy hooked up to my current set up?

What do I need to know about the old dizzy?
Hopefully will just be a donor for a couple of months.

1.3 and 1.5 boxers they come from.
Trying to get some serial numbers from him.

Electronic to points anyone?
Easy connection?
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Problem solved I think. Found myself a dizzy in uk. Will send it to h&h for a complete service and remap.
Also found a 16v oil pump. Better flow so I might be able to use a thinner oil and still have good op at hot idle.
Now just got to get them sent down here! !!
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Better late than never.

Finally got hold of the reconditioned dizzy from H&H.
Has a very smooth action and linear curve.

They did underestimate how bad the petrol is here so I had to add a couple of bushings on the centrifugal weight end stops as it was pinging around 3000 rpm even with a low timing at BTDC.

With the bushings I can run it at 9 degrees BTDC and full power up to 6000 rpm without any pinging.

Also eliminated a flat spot I had below 2000 rpm.

Nice work guys!!

Now I was laid off yesterday I can enjoy it a bit during the summer school vacations here until March!!

Shocked Smile Sad
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ZeNiTh-PbArM
Alfa 33


Joined: 14 Mar 2003
Posts: 388
Location: Paris, France

PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Brit,

Glad to hear you solved the issue with the ignition.
By the way, are you now happy with your hydraulic lifters? Have been reading your story with the INA replacements and am not sure how it ended up...
Been fiddling with lifters lately and this gave me quite a number of nightmares as well.

Regards,
zp
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZeNiTh-PbArM wrote:
Hi Brit,

Glad to hear you solved the issue with the ignition.
By the way, are you now happy with your hydraulic lifters? Have been reading your story with the INA replacements and am not sure how it ended up...
Been fiddling with lifters lately and this gave me quite a number of nightmares as well.

Regards,
zp


Hi zp

What kind of problems have you been having?

I installed the ina tappets with new cams, broke them in as recommended and for the last 2 years plus they have been silent. Knock on wood!
Cold starts. Car not used for weeks. Hot oil low pressure.
No noises with any of these scenarios.

Let me know if I can help.
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ZeNiTh-PbArM
Alfa 33


Joined: 14 Mar 2003
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Location: Paris, France

PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Brit,

A while ago I changed the tappets and been using some VW model I had in stock which looked like it was going to fit. Unfortunately the car sounded like a sewing machine since the first ~1mm or so of the lifter stroke would always stay soft. I did two full heat cycles, tried bleeding the lifters by keeping the RPMs high for quite a time, no luck.
I ended up tearing everything apart again to replace the lifters with some NOS items I had. I was quite angry that I had to do the job twice and ended up replacing the lifters in 3hrs40min all included!
What's the part number you used and how did you put a stop to the intermittent ticking and cold start clacking you reported?

regards,
zp
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZeNiTh-PbArM wrote:
Hi Brit,

A while ago I changed the tappets and been using some VW model I had in stock which looked like it was going to fit. Unfortunately the car sounded like a sewing machine since the first ~1mm or so of the lifter stroke would always stay soft. I did two full heat cycles, tried bleeding the lifters by keeping the RPMs high for quite a time, no luck.
I ended up tearing everything apart again to replace the lifters with some NOS items I had. I was quite angry that I had to do the job twice and ended up replacing the lifters in 3hrs40min all included!
What's the part number you used and how did you put a stop to the intermittent ticking and cold start clacking you reported?

regards,
zp


034 109 309 ina lightweight tappets

They have never made any noise.

NOS ones should work just as well I assume.

Are the cams and tappet buckets good also?

Which ina ones did you buy?
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ZeNiTh-PbArM
Alfa 33


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

I had installed 038 109 309. Measurements are just the same including piston height of the lifter. But obviously not quite the same spec !
The cams were really in good shape and the lifters did not show any particular mark of scuffing or wear before replacement. Only they were quite noisy on startup and with engine hot, therefore the internal leakage rate must have been too high due to wear.
There is no issue in using NOS lifters, I only wanted to test a different part number because NOS items are getting quite scarce these days.

Regards,
zp
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZeNiTh-PbArM wrote:
Hi,

I had installed 038 109 309. Measurements are just the same including piston height of the lifter. But obviously not quite the same spec !
The cams were really in good shape and the lifters did not show any particular mark of scuffing or wear before replacement. Only they were quite noisy on startup and with engine hot, therefore the internal leakage rate must have been too high due to wear.
There is no issue in using NOS lifters, I only wanted to test a different part number because NOS items are getting quite scarce these days.

Regards,
zp



Yes there must be some small internal difference.
The 038 model seems to be used for more modern engines.

Your oil pressure is all ok? Wear on tappet buckets?
I have also used a variety of oils and all quiet.
Also I have low hot idle pressure and they still don't bleed down.

If you need to strip again put the 034 version in.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are people using as their static idle advance setting?

I've got mine at just above 8 degrees. Think I can push it to 9 or 10 for a cooler idle.
When would it start to kickback on starting?
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now I have the detonation sorted and right dizzy curve I have refitted the msd unit.
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mg907
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Joined: 12 Dec 2011
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
in my 33 the static advance is set at the correspondence of the I mark on the flywheel ...

https://picasaweb.google.com/110916262030376023265/33?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7_tP6byfz15QE#5945665869236784306

...with the arrow on the crankcase rear cover.

I do not know how many degree of static advance I've got with a similar setting, but I notice no kickback on starting neither pinging on uphills.

(the second issue is very unlikely in my case because my engine usually runs with LPG that has an extremely high octane ratio).

Just a question, which method are you using to calculate 8,9 or 10 degrees?

Mario

Brit01 wrote:
What are people using as their static idle advance setting?

I've got mine at just above 8 degrees. Think I can push it to 9 or 10 for a cooler idle.
When would it start to kickback on starting?
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was measuring by eye only using the timing light. A couple of mms at a time from the 8 degree mark on the flywheel.

Anyway I found it to be too advanced yesterday.
I set it back at the standard 8 degrees.
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mg907
Alfasud


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your clarification!

I was only wondering if you where struggling against any (approximate) trigonometric formula like:

sin(AdvanceDeegre)*FlywheelRadius


Smile

Mario

(anyway, if someone is still interested in maths I can provide the measure of the flywheel radius because I've got a dismounted spare engine)

Brit01 wrote:
I was measuring by eye only using the timing light. A couple of mms at a time from the 8 degree mark on the flywheel.

Anyway I found it to be too advanced yesterday.
I set it back at the standard 8 degrees.
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ZeNiTh-PbArM
Alfa 33


Joined: 14 Mar 2003
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Location: Paris, France

PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Yes there must be some small internal difference.
The 038 model seems to be used for more modern engines.
Your oil pressure is all ok? Wear on tappet buckets?
I have also used a variety of oils and all quiet.
Also I have low hot idle pressure and they still don't bleed down.
If you need to strip again put the 034 version in.


Hi Brit,

My oil pressure is more than OK, absolutely no wear on the tappets (face, bucket), no wear on the camshafts, no wear on the housings.
I have dismantled the 038 and there is a second spring inside to generate the backlash I have experienced. Why anyone would like to create a hydraulic tappet with backlash is beyond my understanding but there must be a good reason for doing so!
Below a sketch of the insides of the 038 tappet.

regards,
zp

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Brit01
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi zp

I am sure there is a thread about hydraulic tappets here.

Would be good to add your findings to that.

Shame the tappets aren't easier to change and experiment.
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Bobkelso
Alfa Sprint


Joined: 09 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice drawing.

Really not sure but It seam to me that the way the two
coils work together wouldn't generate backlash,
maybeonly a softer transition, like a small damper,
to reduce pressure on cams during initial opening
(at a cost of valves opening less a minimal fraction of mm)

..maybe I'm wrong and it depends also
on where are put the lateral holes
for oil pressure to arrive in the internal parts.

Ps.: should it be present also a small
coil acting on the sphere?
http://www.cuorialfisti.com/tecnica/punterie.htm
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ZeNiTh-PbArM
Alfa 33


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

You are right there is a small cup and coil on the ball. I omitted this for clarity.
The way the back spring generates backlash is, before the hydraulic element expands the backspring expands a little and this generates some slack.
Ive measures this backlash to be consistently around 0.4 - 0.5 mm and this is puzzling.
If I remove the back spring and pump in oil the backlash gets away.
Go figure...

regards,
zp
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RFlower
Alfa 33


Joined: 17 Feb 2004
Posts: 432
Location: S of France

PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting that the 4-5mm backlash you measure is about what is specified on our Sprint engine, which has solid tappets.

Maybe the reason is that, on startup, without any backlash, the hydraulic element is expanded by oil pressure to take up all the clearance, and as the valve heats up its length increases, preventing it from closing completely.

I have always thought that this is a disadvantage of hydraulic lifters.

The small backlash will ensure that the valve always closes tightly, at the expense of a slight increase in tappet noise, which I find pleasant anyway Very Happy


Edit: The oil trapped where the small spring is situated will have to be pushed back through the feed hole, which will stop the backlash being taken up too suddenly, and reduce the noise created.
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ZeNiTh-PbArM
Alfa 33


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I must say the noise generated is most unpleasant and quite more significant than the noise you get with solid lifters. Maybe this is due to the cam profile being different.
At the same time you don't want the valve hitting the seat too hard in order to avoid damage to the seat and to the valve.

Heat-up phase with hydraulic lifters is quite interesting as the valve expands quicker than the head does but the leak-down rate of the hydraulic element is supposed to compensate for that. Of course this is dependent on the oil viscosity (one of the reasons why recommended oil grades are important!)

regards,
zp
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 12:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZeNiTh-PbArM wrote:
Hi

I must say the noise generated is most unpleasant and quite more significant than the noise you get with solid lifters. Maybe this is due to the cam profile being different.
At the same time you don't want the valve hitting the seat too hard in order to avoid damage to the seat and to the valve.

Heat-up phase with hydraulic lifters is quite interesting as the valve expands quicker than the head does but the leak-down rate of the hydraulic element is supposed to compensate for that. Of course this is dependent on the oil viscosity (one of the reasons why recommended oil grades are important!)

regards,
zp


Why not try the tappets I use?
After 2 years silent. Used various grades of oil. Hot or cold still quiet.
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ZeNiTh-PbArM
Alfa 33


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Brit,

I sure will !
Not sure how you ended up selecting normal against lightweight lifters though...
I'm just trying to get a little bit wiser by understanding how stuff works and how to improve reliability and operation of the engines I work on.
It's impressive how little people (including myself) know about engineering details of most parts of an engine.

regards,
zp
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 1:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZeNiTh-PbArM wrote:
Hi Brit,

I sure will !
Not sure how you ended up selecting normal against lightweight lifters though...
I'm just trying to get a little bit wiser by understanding how stuff works and how to improve reliability and operation of the engines I work on.
It's impressive how little people (including myself) know about engineering details of most parts of an engine.

regards,
zp


cool!
They cost me about 200 usd for the 8.
plus the head gaskets you'll need to change the heads again.
I was very nervous about trying non OEM tappets but all the measurements seemed to add up and they were lighter with a good hardness.
the oil hole looked different but I was told its just a manufacturing process and does not affect performance.
Tappet bores need to be in good condition - I changed one cam head for this.

fired her up with lots of assembly grease and run them in for 15 mins at 3000 rpm.

for more than two years all dead silent touch wood!
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