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A forum for help with the Alfasud And Alfa 33
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bobdebouwer
Alfa Arna
Joined: 03 Dec 2004
Posts: 4
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 Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 1:20 am Post subject: First alfa |
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Ok lads, Im new to this site and its the dogs danglies.
Neway, Ive just bought a what I think could be a minter, although atm its a banger (nearly neway).
I got myself a 1991 H-reg 33 S Cloverleaf Permanent 4 w/ almost complete service history (missing an MOT cert  ) for a whopping £65.
Now as far as I can tell all I need to pass an MOT is 2 new sills (jacking points are knackered) and a very good service ie sort out timing, fuel mixture, new plugs etc. Already sorted out knocking sound when turning going slow (was needing a new brackets for the centre diff) by buying a new rear bracket.
Ok, enuf boasting, heres my general problems with the car so please if you can help i would very much appreciate it.
1/. Last week I replaced the rear diff mount, then took it for a quick spin up the road to check it out and that was the last time I used it. The car was starting fine the until today when it now wont start at all, I flattened the battery trying to start it. It did look like it was almost out of petrol so I took the little petrol can my dad has in the garage and poured it all in the car and then found out he'd made it into 2-stroke fuel, however I did try and to dilute it with about 3 more cans of unleaded. So 5 litres 2-stroke and 15 litres of unleaded.
2/. Heater matrix isnt working, well it does kinda. I get not alot of cold air coming out of the sides, very little roasting hot air coming out of the dash (to my feet or the windscreen). The fan speed adjuster doesnt adjust the fan speed, can adjust where the air comes out, cant fully turn the dial for outside or recirculating air.
3/. When I switch the ignition on some of the dash lights illuminate (not a problem), however when I turn the lights on the lights for the heater matrix go out. Also with the ignition off when I switch the lights on all the dash lights come on as normal, if I turn the ignition on the heater matrix lights go out.
4/. As for the sills, well 2 out of 4 jacking points have been pushed up into the recess, so if someone living in scotland has a set of sills they want to give me (or sell me i suppose) please let me know.
5/. Please if someone has a MINT condition or brand new front centre diff mounting bracket, same as above please let me know because those brackets are no longer being made.
6/. Not a problem really just want to know what would be the best way to modify my flat 4 engine, I was wondering if anyone has ever tried to do a twin turbo as this is what i wanna do (along with nitrous and water injection of course). Also is there anyway of getting rid of the inlet manifold and having 2 seperate manifolds or something (lol im not that mechanically minded.
Oh just one thing, the car was very bleached by the sun and I just used T-cut coloured bottle thing and has brought the paint job up superbly.
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LDA
Alfa 33
Joined: 28 Nov 2004
Posts: 276
Location: France
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| Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 1:54 am Post subject: Re: First alfa |
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| bobdebouwer wrote: |
1/. Last week I replaced the rear diff mount, then took it for a quick spin up the road to check it out and that was the last time I used it. The car was starting fine the until today when it now wont start at all, I flattened the battery trying to start it. It did look like it was almost out of petrol so I took the little petrol can my dad has in the garage and poured it all in the car and then found out he'd made it into 2-stroke fuel, however I did try and to dilute it with about 3 more cans of unleaded. So 5 litres 2-stroke and 15 litres of unleaded.
2/. Heater matrix isnt working, well it does kinda. I get not alot of cold air coming out of the sides, very little roasting hot air coming out of the dash (to my feet or the windscreen). The fan speed adjuster doesnt adjust the fan speed, can adjust where the air comes out, cant fully turn the dial for outside or recirculating air.
3/. When I switch the ignition on some of the dash lights illuminate (not a problem), however when I turn the lights on the lights for the heater matrix go out. Also with the ignition off when I switch the lights on all the dash lights come on as normal, if I turn the ignition on the heater matrix lights go out.
4/. As for the sills, well 2 out of 4 jacking points have been pushed up into the recess, so if someone living in scotland has a set of sills they want to give me (or sell me i suppose) please let me know.
5/. Please if someone has a MINT condition or brand new front centre diff mounting bracket, same as above please let me know because those brackets are no longer being made.
6/. Not a problem really just want to know what would be the best way to modify my flat 4 engine, I was wondering if anyone has ever tried to do a twin turbo as this is what i wanna do (along with nitrous and water injection of course). Also is there anyway of getting rid of the inlet manifold and having 2 seperate manifolds or something (lol im not that mechanically minded.
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hi and welcome to the world of alfa's!!!
1, take the fuel tank off. only takes about 30mins to do. only 1 hard pipe to get at. empty the lot and start again. might be worth cleaning or replacing the fuel filter too. only a few quid
2, sounds to me like some of the cables from the sliders haev come off the flaps. also the heater its self is prolly very dirty and needs a clean out. there is another topic in this forum about that. well worth a read i think.
3, no idea. but i bet that its a dodgy earth. someone else might know better than me tho.
4, i had an old Arna back in the day and it needed 2 full sills as they had rusted right through. it only cost 180quid of welding at the local garage. try you local garage, it might not be as bad as you think. most places just make up metal plates and weld them in. no need for original sills.
5, sorry cant help.
6, lol twin turbo.. they would have to be soo small.
if you do want to turbo it (and thats what i'm gonna do) then you need a small single turbo. like a t2 or t25. you will have to add a 5th injector and some electronics to control it. and intercooler, custom exhaust and manifold, fuel pump, fuel presure regulator, maybe bigger injectors and you wont be able to run much above 6psi for fear of blowing up your engine.
NO2 is a waste of time. it is expensive and runs out fast. plus it puts massive strain on all the engine and drive train. not worth the effort of blowing up your car.
water injection is a good idea esp' if you want to run a little bit more boost. up to 8psi maybe with a good intercooler and better fueling.
you'll need a new clutch as the stock one wont be up to the job of a turbo.
good luck
L.
p.s. i also own a P4, its my second one.
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A good workman allways blames his sh*t tools. |
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tvatavuk
Gold Cloverleaf
Joined: 13 Mar 2003
Posts: 673
Location: Split, Croatia
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| Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 9:26 am Post subject: |
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Hi Bob...
2) Air coming from side round ducts is untreated outside one. Treated ventilated one coming on sides is only for defoging windows mirror area.
5) You're not only one
http://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=1799&highlight=
And my P4 would need it also.
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Tino Vatavuk
Little black dress which replaced Alfa Romeo 33 S 16v Permanent 4 GMo |
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gritsop
Green Cloverleaf
Joined: 23 Apr 2003
Posts: 766
Location: Ekali, Athens - Greece
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| Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 9:39 am Post subject: |
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Hi,
About the heater matrix lights.
Remove the tray under the panel switches in order to gain access to the cables and the connectors. The harness that gives power to the heater comes from the rear of the car and a black connector is the one that gives you all those gramlins.
Disconnect it and using a fine file or sandpaper remove the black debris that has accumulated in the black wires (the negative pole).
It is very possible that the connector has signs of melt since many Amps pass through these wires - actually if debris is accumulated then things get worse.
Please keep us informed with your progress or if you have any other question, feel free to ask.
Regards,
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Thanassis Gritsopoulos
1991 Alfa 33 1.4 IE
2001 Alfa 147 1.6 Distinctive
http://www.alfa-restoration.co.uk
Parts Shop: www.alfa-restoration.co.uk/shop |
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bobdebouwer
Alfa Arna
Joined: 03 Dec 2004
Posts: 4
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| Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 7:29 pm Post subject: thanks |
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Thanks for the info, Ill give it a go tomorrow if it isnt raining!! which it normally is this time of year in scotland.
As for not starting, i thought id give it another go when I got home today, it wanted to start but the battery was too flat to start, so I think Ill give it a proper go tomorrow with some jump leads.
Found a site where i can buy a pair of sills for £60 so I may as well drill off the old ones and get my mechanic mate to spot weld some new ones on.
I will keep you all informed and hopefully the car will be on the road in perfect condition sometime in mid January.
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LDA
Alfa 33
Joined: 28 Nov 2004
Posts: 276
Location: France
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| Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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good luck with the repairs, make sure you weld them sills good!
L.
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paddy granger
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 12 Aug 2003
Posts: 248
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LDA
Alfa 33
Joined: 28 Nov 2004
Posts: 276
Location: France
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| Posted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 11:39 pm Post subject: |
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the problem with serial turbos is that you get a gap between the small turbo and the large one where there is no boost at all for a short while.
its like an extra gearchange.
the 1.7 isnt big enough to need 2 turbos and to get 2 small enough to work just one side alone would be hard work and a waste of time.
a simgle t2 ot t25 turbo will spool quite fast and deliver more than enough presure and air for a 1.7.
the stock nissan pulsar uses a t28 turbo with some mods to make it spool faster and flow higher. on the 2.0L car it can be useful up for about 330bhp!!
even if you were to use 2 small t2 turbos then that would add upto a t4 and you defo dont need that much lag on a 1.7.
maybe a turbo from an mr2 turbo would be quite good. a small ceramic t26 turbo for low lag. these supply enough air for 300bhp on a 2.0 car so should be fine on the 1.7.
honestly i'd go for one well matched turbo rather than as many as you can fit under the bonnet.
are you going to rebuild the engine before you turbo it?
parts i think you need for a good turbo mod.
lower compression ratio with pistons
thicker steal head gaskets
colder spark plugs
bigger injectors
a fuel computer
uprated fuel pump
intercooler
small turbo t2/t25
exhaust manifold
oil cooler
oil and water feeds for turbo
that should do you.
if you are on a budget then you could get away with not rebuilding and just running light presure. mods for that would only be.
turbo
manifold
intercooler
fuel computer
5th injector
oil cooler
oil and water feeds for turbo
uprated fuel pump
the other thing to consider is once the engine is under boost you will get blow by from the extra presure.
i'm not sure about the cam timing on the 33 yet but if there is any overlap on the exhaust then the cams will need to be changed to remove this overlap.
also for best results the valves could do with re seating to make sure they are up to the job of holding a boosted charge.
i am going to turbo my 16v on the cheap and if it goes well i'm going to carry on to the full rebuild. i'll post up my project as each stage gets under way.
good luck with your project, but i honestly thing that 2 turbos is too many for the 1.7.
L.
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paddy granger
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 12 Aug 2003
Posts: 248
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| Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 12:28 am Post subject: |
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A chap in Israel has wacked a turbocharger onto his Alfa 33. You can see pics of the build here:
http://photos.walla.co.il/izik334
Just ignore any requests for the hebrew language plugin, unless you want it. If you get a blank screen after ignoring the plugin thing, click on the address bar and press enter.
Some pics were posted on the following thread:
http://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=1648&highlight=turbo
Note that he used an Alfa 145 intake manifold. |
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GaryUK
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 6:06 pm Post subject: |
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The jacking points are not attached to the sills they are between the sIlls and the chassis rails. The jacking points can be replaced easily and providing that it is the jacking points that have gone and not the chassis you have a bargain.
HOWEVER
If there is rot around the jacking points check the rear suspension towers as I bet they will be f-ed too. If you can't weld expect a hefty repair bill now and at every MOT in the future as once rot has started you'll be for ever chasing it.
Seriously have a good poke about with a screw driver and see what else is shot, I bet you will find the car is well beyond economical and practical repair. Sorry  |
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bobdebouwer
Alfa Arna
Joined: 03 Dec 2004
Posts: 4
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| Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 7:35 pm Post subject: update |
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Well I have fixed the heater matrix, the had been some dodgy wiring done and the wires had been melted because of the heat (so were shorting out), so removed the wires and tidied the area up. Have unclogged the oil breather filter and took the top off the dizzie cap dried it off, sprayed some WD40, put it back together and it now starts like a dream.
I will at some stage before I do the turbo rebuild and chrome up the engine and whack in as much cooling stuff as poss i.e. intercooler, oil cooler and try to get something for the power steering fluid as well.
Also what I may end up doing is stripping the whale car down to metal and then rebuild the whole thing however, I have not done that much to a car before so I will leave that till it gets a little warmer and I have more time to spend on it.
I know I may sound stupid but why a 5th injector?
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LDA
Alfa 33
Joined: 28 Nov 2004
Posts: 276
Location: France
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| Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2004 10:08 am Post subject: |
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a 5th injector is just a cheap and easy way to up the fueling ready for a turbo. not the best set up but it sorta works.
the ideal would be 4 larger injectors and stand alone ecu with your own map on it. there are come quite cheap and good systems out there now. motec arent the only people who do it so you dont have to spend 3k getting it installed and mapped.
i spose you could just leave the engine stock, run low boost and ramp up the fuel presure to stop it from detting. might be a bit lumpy off boost tho.
L.
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