Alfa Pages

[Pimp_Dudu]

I have to change my clutch very very soon, as it started slipping last week, but only for a short time. Even though it's now ok, i still want to change it. So exactly how easy will this process be? i already have a new sports clutch for my 33 (92 1,7ie). But i really don't want to give it to a repair shop since it will cost ALOT. But i have never ever changed a clutch. From what i hear it will be almsot impossible for me to do, but i still want to risk. So if anybody can give me any ideas on where to start and where to find info on clutch changing then it i will be really grateful.
P.s. I have the workshop manual for the 2nd series but i'm not sure could i use that manual with the 3rd series clutch??
Thanx in advance

[loui]

Find the Old Alfa Sud/sprint manual the clutch change routine is the same.
It's a large task for a first time attempt at clutch changing.
I usually drop the engine and gear box from the car. Not sure if it can be changed with the engine still in the car.

The drive shaft nuts need to be removed with a large socket and breaker bar. The other end at the engine is held with allan keys/Hex nuts. It's easier with the shafts off. more room to manouver.

Up top the radiator, electrics, hoses etc have to be removed. slacken the engine mounting at the rear of the engine and leave the bolt in it . Supporting the engine for later.

When you are finished under the bonnet/hood go underneath and remove the front crossmember and unbolt the track control arms from it at the front. You need the space to lower the engine under the car.

The car needs to be raised high enought to allow the engine to pass under the body. Engine hoist, large friends are usefull. When the engine and car are high enough you can remove the bolt from the engine mounting and lower the engine and pull it out to the front of the car.

Split the box from the motor and replace the clutch. The clutch plates need to be lined up centrally with the hole in the flywheel. Special tool is needed or you can wrap masking tape to suit around a socket ratchet or extension. Engine replacement is the reverse of removal.

Study the book/manual well before you begin and don't forget where the bits came of the car from. It will probable take a day to remove the engine and another to replace it.

Good luck if you go ahead

[Wizz]

Sorry to hear about your clutch problems, but I suppose they don't last forever.

Anyway, I disagree with Ioui.
I don't believe there's any need to remove the engine block entirely.
I'm currently working on giving my gearbox an overhaul, and when we swapped the old one out, I noticed that the clutch was quite easy to work with, once you had dismounted the gearbox.

Before you proceed, I would recommend putting a plank of wood across the engine, resting on top. And then lower a rope down and tie the engine block up. This way, when you undo the 3 engine supports, it won't come crashing to the ground. Also, remove your gearknob, since you'll be removing your gearbox.
Once this is done, start by disconnecting the two drive axles. Then undo the front engine support (Detail C on picture below), then the rearmost one (B). By this point, you should be able to "wiggle" the engine, since it's only hanging by one point (A). Now, I can't remember if you can remove the gearbox with this last support still "working", but if you can't, then undo the A-support. Then you'll be able to lower the engine a bit, allowing for some room to remove the gearbox. (This will definitely take two people, since the working-position is often ankward, and space might be limited if you're not on a lift or the like..)
So - with the gearbox gone, the clutch should be in view and quite easy to access.


Hope it's of some help.
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//Wizz
Alfa 33, 1.5 IE (1992) (Series 3)... now with 1.7 IE

[Pimp_Dudu]

WOW...thanx alot guys and i mean alot especiall wizz thanx for the pics...i really have no words that can describe how grateful i am. anyways thanxagain alot!!!!!!!!!!

[BILL]

Not a easy DIY job.
You must lift the car,remove the exhaust,remove the gearbox and then go for the new clutch kit.Remember to also put a new fork (the piece from secondary cylinder to the clutch).You will put the original kit (VALEO ? ) or something better ?
I wish luck .

[Wizz]

Just found a couple of pictures that might be of help.
They were taken using my phone, hence the bad quality.
Here, the first one was taken while the gearbox was still connected, you can see that the engine has been tilted, so we can pull the gearbox out.

The next thing to do is remove the nuts along the edge of the gearbox, after that is done, it can be pulled off.

The second picture was taken after the gearbox has been removed.
Behold! The clutch! Once the gearbox is gone, the clutch is easilly accessed. If I remember correctly, just undo the bolts along the edge of the clutch plate, and it should come off.

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//Wizz
Alfa 33, 1.5 IE (1992) (Series 3)... now with 1.7 IE

[Ken McCarthy]

Some very good advice and pictures, well done.

I am about to replace the clutch on my car too, although I probably won't do it myself. Are there any better clutches out there than Alfa supply? This is for road use, not racing.

Regards
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Ken McCarthy - 16V Sprint

[Dicko]

Dont know about supporting the weight of the motor from a plank... does that mean the weight is on the body of the car ie above weel arches??

I think a hoist is nicer to the car than non engineered mounting points.??????

or else next time Ill try it.

Any way.. the hanging idea looks good, to save the cross member and susspensioon arm removal. For some reason that became painful for me.

Sud crossmember to 33 Series 1 ( too add sway bar).

Crossmember main bolt holes seem slightly off ( the forwarder ones)

Can any one recomend if there is a sequence to fit it better, using leverage???
Should I need to contain some kind of sprung energy in the chassis rails.??/ hope that makes sense
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Too Many!! 33 QV 1.5 1986 (day driver, Sud 1.5 82 (toy) and Sud Ti Qv 84 (on hold), 1988 1.7 carbie too (wobly).

[Dicko]

I am implying that I have still two bolts missing from my front cross member, if any one wants to reply. They are not quite lined up.

The last thing I want to do is incfrease the chance of cracking the weak front end rails by forcing tension into the design.???

( not back on the road yet)..

dick
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Too Many!! 33 QV 1.5 1986 (day driver, Sud 1.5 82 (toy) and Sud Ti Qv 84 (on hold), 1988 1.7 carbie too (wobly).

[Wizz]

When we took out the engine on mine completely, the crossmember was a complete bitch to fit afterwards as well. I believe we used a metal pipe for some leverage. I can't remember if it gets any easier if you put the wheels back on, and then lower them slightly to the ground, might help get the bars into position.
Sorry, that's all I can remember.

Yeah, the thing with hanging the engine from a plank works quite well, my dad and I did it just yesterday for the second time. Works like a charm, much easier than removing the entire engine.
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//Wizz
Alfa 33, 1.5 IE (1992) (Series 3)... now with 1.7 IE

[Matt Stolton]

Lloyd at clovertech has a special 'plank' for just such an eventuallity.

It is actaully made by Draper, and has two adjustable width legs which sit in the rails of the wing, where the bonnet seal rubbers should be if they extended beyond the electrical bulkhead.

It then has a point for fixing chains to, which is on a corse thread with handle, so you can lower or raise the engine, just by winding the handle up or down.

I have used it, and it makes it really easy. Obviously a plank or stought joist, would be an equally useful item, although I would add som rubber or material between plank and paint work. Lloyd's Gadget has rubberised feet.



They also do a 500 KG one with twin wind up chain points.
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Regards

Matt

Ex Alfa 33 'GTA' (P4 with Knobs On)
Now cruising in a 166 3.2 Ti!!

[Matt Stolton]

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Regards

Matt

Ex Alfa 33 'GTA' (P4 with Knobs On)
Now cruising in a 166 3.2 Ti!!

[John Hansen]

First replacement at about 170,000kms was a Valero kitr, second replacemnt at about 320,000 was a Sachs kit. The latter seems OK and cost about AUS$220.00, which seemed reasonable. Only other point is tha flywheel should be machined when clutch is replaced.
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John H
'87 Alfa 33 QV

[Ken McCarthy]

Thanks John.
I put a Sachs clutch in my previous transmission (1.5) and at first there was a bad balance problem rectified by John French at their cost (thank you JF). The second one gave no problem although I swapped the whole front drive unit before it had gone far into its life.

Regards
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Ken McCarthy - 16V Sprint

[Buck Bundy]

I think many transverse engined cars use special tools like the draper plank to support the engine when the clutch is being changed. The Fiat Uno does for sure. Use suitable padding and a plank should be fine.

Buck
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Sprint Veloce 1.5 - Ebay £310!!! (In need of TLC)