Alfa Pages

Box_me2 · Guest

When I first got my 87 33 1.7 the choke was working fine, however I am unable to pull it out far enough now for it to have any effect. Any suggestions? Joel

Ian M · Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 9:27 am Post subject:

Dont worry too much about it because they do start ok without it...mine has not been working (well it works but you have to get under the bonnet to cancel it) for a long long time.
_________________
Presntly own
Red Abarth 500c

Guest · Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 1:38 pm Post subject:

I have never had a 33 or twin-twin carbed sud with a choke on they simply don't need it.

ChrisC · Alfa Sprint Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Posts: 152 Location: Frome

Sounds like the cable is working its way loose. pull it through (at the carb end obviously) some more and tighten.
_________________
Alfa Sprint QV - Gone to a better home and in happier health for it
Silver Lancia Beta HPE Volumex - under restoration

sudman · Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2003 12:49 pm Post subject:

Yeah, I've never had a need for the choke on either of my two 1.5 engines or the 1.7. And it fires every time on a cold (-3) Christchurch morning, no troubles at all.

Matt Stolton · Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 9:10 am Post subject: Don't use the choke at all

Useing the choke is more problematic than it is worth. The carbs (particulalrly Webers) tend to get the choke mechanism slightly jammed when you release the choke lever, leaving you with partial choke on a warm engine. This eventually releases itself with time, but leaves you with eratic idle on a warm engine. I actually ended up disconnecting my choke cable.

The best way to start the 8V carbed engines (from cold), is to fully depress the accelerator 4 times, then hold the accelerator fully open and turn the starter. As it fires, immedietly lessen the accelerator to give you 1000-1500 rpm. Rememeber to keep the tach in the green until your engine temp is up to 80!!

For warm, just holding your accelerator at half way should be enough to start, but the old full depression before may be needed due to tune of your particular engine/actaul temp etc.

Carbs are more effort, but are so much more rewarding if you get them right. I chanced across my old '1.7 Ti' at Clovertech on Tuesday (the new owner missed putting it into 2nd gear, floored it to a daft RPM, and clipped two valves). It was sitting outside idling to get its hydraulic lifters to stop their chatter after the headwork, but the carbs sounded almost i.e. in their efficiency and stability. With any movement of the accelerator, the revs moved perfectly with no hesitation or flat spots, just a very gratifying roar (I fitted trumpets some time ago Very Happy

). With proper setup,carbs are very very good things. It even starts in a blink of the eye.
_________________
Regards

Matt

Ex Alfa 33 'GTA' (P4 with Knobs On)
Now cruising in a 166 3.2 Ti!!

Ben_nz · Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 10:27 am Post subject:

Ian M · Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:37 am Post subject:

Try a bit of toe & heel...the pedals are so close you can operate brake & accelerator with the right foot...steady pressure on the brake while blipping the throttle will keep it going leaving the left foot free for changing down the box...simple!! Laughing

_________________
Presntly own
Red Abarth 500c

paddy granger · Alfa Sprint Joined: 12 Aug 2003 Posts: 248

I would suggest warming the car up before setting off! Wink

Ben_nz · Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2003 10:34 am Post subject:

DaveNZ · Guest

well.....i always let my car warm up before i leave for 2 reasons

1. it drives much nicer when i do hit the road.
2. there will be less engine wear.

I also make a point of not giving it stick until it is fully warmed up. Your car will love you for it.

Dave

Ben_nz · Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2003 2:52 am Post subject:

After spending hundreds of bucks at Italian Auto Centre, my car runs much better. =)

Before, the choke would work properly for 20~30 secs then the engine revs would just drop and the car would stall, leaving me with stalling and spluttering and missing and carry-on until the engine temp got to nearly 60. Warm idle regularly had 'character' and car wouldn't idle on hills.

The mechanics replaced carb floats, all under-bonnet fuel lines (no more electrical tape on frayed bits!), distributor cap and rotor (both pretty worn), spark plugs, air filter, and did a tune-up..
Lazy me just cleaned a few earth connections. The washer on the ignition coil earth broke in two when I took the nut off. Shocked

Now the car doesn't act up, idles smoothly, feels faster (yay!), and if I wanted to leave it idling until it warmed up, I could do so without having to sit in the car trying to keep the motor going and filling the neighbourhood with unburnt petrol smell.

Box_me2 · Guest

Thanks heaps for all your help... the heal and toe thing is a lot of fun! Cool