Alfa Pages

[James F]

...and I don't mean sort of cool!

In the recent spell of warm weather here in England (around 25-28 degrees) the engine got pretty warm after few minutes when stationary - or in slow moving traffic.

Top temp goes up to around 110 degrees , but the fan comes on at the right temp, but just doesn't seem to keep temp down for more than another few minutes.

Are the radiators and/or cooling fans of a different spec in hotter countries?

Or is there a way to make it all a bit more efficient?

Not much fun whacking on the heater full blast into the cabin to try and disipate some of the heat from the engine!

(Obviously the engine is turned off when completely stationary )
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cheers

James F

Series 3 16v SportWagon

[gritsop]

Hi,

Have you maintained your colling system? I mean have you checked your radiator for blocked tubes? Probably due to blocked tubes the engine wants from the radiator cooler coolant but the radiator cannot provide such quantity.

It is a good practise to flush the radiator , use a cooling system cleaner and then with a garden hose flush everything (radiator, engine, hoses) so that every dirt goes away.

Another thing can be a not effective water pump - does make knocking sounds when engine works?

Regards,
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Thanassis Gritsopoulos
1991 Alfa 33 1.4 IE
2001 Alfa 147 1.6 Distinctive

http://www.alfa-restoration.co.uk
Parts Shop: www.alfa-restoration.co.uk/shop

[pete nz 33]

as above, plus possible thermostat problem, although they are supposed to fail in the open position .
Note also high concentrations of anti-freeze decrease coolant efficiancy. Bear in mind you must have the minimum ratio to protect the engine from rust corrosion etc
good luck

[James F]

Hi

cheers for the info

I must say I am aware that my rad isn't too brilliant and I guess if any / many of the tubes are blocked then that is probably the source of the trouble.

The water pump was new last year (which is why I know the rad to be a bit suspect), and I put in about 40% coolant (i think, can't remember the exact percentage), and I am fairly sure the thermostat was changed about 15 months ago, just before I bought the car.

So, I will change the rad when I get some money and time to do so!

Many thanks for the help,
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cheers

James F

Series 3 16v SportWagon

[Morgan]

The water temp. of 33 is usually between 90 to 100 degrees whatever in summer or winter with original radiator in Taiwan. The temp. of summer is usually 28 to 32 degree, so some people here replace custom made radiator. It's a bit larger and cheaper than original one.

[yik33]

[quote="James F
Are the radiators and/or cooling fans of a different spec in hotter countries?
[/quote]


Our ambient temp is around 30C everyday. (Singapore). All 33s here have two cooling fans. ( The original factory fan fitted between engine/ radiator on the driver side and another fan fitted between the radiator/grill on the passenger side). Both fans turn on or off simultaneously. (There are two other fans but they are for cooling the two aircond condensors located under the front wheel arches.)

110C is too high. My normal coolant temp reads around 80C to 90C for town driving.

Could be choked coolant circulation, caused by 'rust debris' trapped inside the smaller diameter coolant hoses. These trapped debris will not dislodge by the usual flushing process. You need to poke them off with something like a metal rod (after removing the hoses concerned.)

Suspect hoses are the small ones between the coolant overflow reservoir & the engine block. Also the short one between the L & R blocks. ( remove this one with care as it is likely to be very old & will tear easily.)If you can feel & hear something crumbling when you squeeze these hoses ( before removing them), high chance there is 'rust debris' inside.
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YK Yik
33 1.7 16v (1990)

[JF]

Hi

I will go and feel my hoses when I get a chance - off on hols tomorrow - but due an oil change anyway so will have a fondle down under when I get the chance, if you see what I mean?

Cheers for the info,

James F

[yik33]

Hi James
Good luck & happy hunting. Btw, fondle from top (not under car) and in standing position, if you know what I mean
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YK Yik
33 1.7 16v (1990)

[Matt Stolton]

LLoyd had a car in, which had bean tweaked (some form of turbo punto type thing). He was complaining of high temp, and the cause was found to be a radiator with only half of the fins attached to the coolant bars intact!! Basically it was knackered.

Lloyd quoted around sub £200 to supply and fit new rad, and the guy fell over!!! A few weeks later the car comes back in, with a warped head and serious running problems. Due to the heat build up, the head had warped dramatically, and water was entering pots 2 and 3. Further more the extra heat, and the extra steam caused the head to become 'pitted', and chunks of the head were missing, which had melted away!!

The guys now looking at around £1000 to restore the engine back, including a skim, with spattering of new metal to make good the head, 2 new exhaust valves which had got too hot, all associated gaskets, etc, and the new radiator.

Morel of the storey is to get your rad sorted ASAP, as it can quickly spiral out of control, as can the costs to make good afterwards.
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Regards

Matt

Ex Alfa 33 'GTA' (P4 with Knobs On)
Now cruising in a 166 3.2 Ti!!