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Buying new alfa help?

 
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alferr
Alfasud


Joined: 02 May 2003
Posts: 76
Location: ausrtralia, south australia

PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2003 1:08 am    Post subject: Buying new alfa help? Reply with quote

hey people, thanks for all your help in the past now,

i am buying an alfa 75 1990, i was wondering if anyone new anything common things to watch out for in them, its the automatic, dont worry this is not taking over my 33 though Laughing

anything, like common problems eg. power str. or prone to rust under boot seal, anything like that, that i can check

thanks in advance,
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Scott Sander
Alfa 33


Joined: 20 Feb 2003
Posts: 419
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2003 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

You may have better luck at http://forum.alfaclubnsw.org.au

There is a section for 75's. My only memory of things to check is the donuts. Sorry can't really help more than that.
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'91 Alfa 33 Boxer 16V Monza - Awesome
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ak8635
Alfasud


Joined: 16 Apr 2003
Posts: 38
Location: London, UK

PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2003 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi alferr,

which one are you planning to buy?

i am also looking for a 2nd monster besides the 33. probably 155 2l or 75 3.0 v6...
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Admin
Site Admin


Joined: 19 Feb 2003
Posts: 1223
Location: Stafford, UK

PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2003 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

We used to have a 75 V6 Auto.

They have a few problems. As mentioned the donuts in the prop shaft go. Also the fuel tanks commonly rust through. Electrics are, errmm, amusing. There is a connector in the dashboard on the passenger side for the heated rear window that often burns out, sometimes filling the car with smoke when it does it.

Changing the auto gearbox fluid is a pain of a job. The filler hole is about 8mm diameter so you land up having to put in 2.5L (ish) of fluid in with a small syringe.

It is only a 3 speed auto, but responds OK when you manually change. Think the basic box was also used in some BMWs.

Seats collapse with age. It is possible to swap the seat bases over from the drivers and passengers seats.

The cam belt tensioner is actually a detensioner using hydraulic preasure from the engines lubrication system. They often leak (onto the cam belt......)

The rear suspension uses self leveling rear shock. Not great but expensive to replace. Easiest to switch to standard rear shocks and springs (but you need the standard power steering pump as well)

We spent ages trying to trace a water leak which we thought was from the sunroof. Turned out to be the bodyshell had rusted through under the windscreen trim and that allowed water in. Think someone had done a nasty job of taking a windscreen out and had scraped all the rust protection off

All the best

Keith
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alferr
Alfasud


Joined: 02 May 2003
Posts: 76
Location: ausrtralia, south australia

PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2003 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for your help guys, umm i was going to buy an auto v6, but after getting the mechanic to check it out, it was pissing oil out of everyhole it could. neways, i didn't buy that one i bought one that was cheaper, and in immaculate condition, manual 2.6l v6 , it goes very fast, 125kw on the dyno, car only weighs 1100kg,


once again thanks
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ak8635
Alfasud


Joined: 16 Apr 2003
Posts: 38
Location: London, UK

PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2003 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi alferr,
You bought 75 or 155? Rear wheel drive?

Anyway, enjoy it!!
Twisted Evil
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alferr
Alfasud


Joined: 02 May 2003
Posts: 76
Location: ausrtralia, south australia

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ya bough the 75!!! its good
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