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Crankshaft pulley removal

 
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Brit01
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Joined: 24 May 2010
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:23 pm    Post subject: Crankshaft pulley removal Reply with quote

Is this the correct tool for locking the flywheel to undo/tighten the crank pulley?
I assume it bolts into the holes where the wheel cover fits. 10mm bolts.

http://www.totallyalfa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=main.dspProduct&id=24

Don't fancy spending 300 quid on a battery impact wrench and also don't trust the local workshop with this particular task especially as I have a modified radiator fitting and second fan etc.

They are bound to get confused and break something or tighten the crank nut with the impact wrench and not torqued properly up to 14kg-m max.
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mg907
Alfasud


Joined: 12 Dec 2011
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Location: Italy

PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Crankshaft pulley removal Reply with quote

I really do not understand how that tool could work. Has it to be mounted from under the car between engine and gearbox? It seems only a \_/ shaped metal bar.
Even if the code seems the right one (A.2.0378), I was not able to find a picture on the manual to compare with the tool proposed by totallyalfa
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the flat part there are holes/grooves that match the starter ring gear.
You can see them if you increase the brightness of the pic.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly.

Remove the flywheel cover underneath and the teeth are revealed.

This bolts onto the 2 adjacent holes , 10mm bolts, and the teeth engage onto the flywheel locking it.

It's noted and illustrated in the 33 manual.
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Bobkelso
Alfa Sprint


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't remember, the holes where this tool bolts are on the motor or on the gear box?
If I have the motor detached from the car and from the gear box, can I still use that tool?
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are on the back plate, so yes once the box is removed you can still use it.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It bolts on where the flywheel cover is, that is held on with 3 10mm bolts, the one that many people forget when trying to remove the gearbox Smile
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep BigAl is right.

The middle bolt of the cover is attached to the gearbox and the 2 side bolts are on the back plate of the block (these are the 2 I assume I use to attach the locking tool I bought).

Very Happy
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ZeNiTh-PbArM
Alfa 33


Joined: 14 Mar 2003
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Location: Paris, France

PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Please do NOT use the 10mm bolts from the cover for securing the tool. The tool is thick and the threads in the back plate are aluminum, the bolts are too shot and you'll strip the threads. I use a longer than required bolt and a nut which I tighten to secure the tool

regards,
zp
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the tip.

I'll use longer bolts as you suggest.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zp:

Quote:
I use a longer than required bolt and a nut which I tighten to secure the tool


What length bolts did you use?

What length are the female threads in the back plate?

Until I get the tool I don't know but want to have the bolts on-hand and ready.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would measure the thickness of the new tool and add that to the length of the original bolts Smile
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ZeNiTh-PbArM
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

I use another technique : take a longer than required bolt, for example M6x50mm.
On the bolt, screw a nut fully.
Intall the tool, then screw the bolt + nut assembly in the threads of the rear plate until the bolt is fully in. Then use a first spanner to prevent the bolt from rotating and unscrew the nut until it's seated against the tool
This allows you to gain advantage from the full length of the threads

regards,
zp
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Locking tool arrived and didn't fit properly!!!

Managed to get around it slightly and lock the flywheel using the tool.
It held in place for long enough to change pulleys.

I informed the company which they said it was strange as they had used it on several 1.7 boxer engines.

Did AR vary the design of the flywheel/backplate during their years of production?

The tool's teeth were at the right height and the holes aligned perfectly on the back plate but the teeth of the flywheel were about 1.5 cms further back!!!
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Bobkelso
Alfa Sprint


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Brit..
may be the tool is "only" for 1.6 8v (145) and 1.7 16v (33 and 145) ?

These boxers have a different flywheel (I'm sure for 1.7 16v,
not sure for 1.6 8v but it is possible) that are as you say,
with teeth of the flywheel were about 1.5 cms further back.

I remember that because on 16v the starter motor is the same
than on other boxers but it need an additional plate of 1,5-2 cms
to be mounted in the right position to work with flywheel teeth.

May be vendor should have mention that in evidence,
(sorry also I did'nt notice the detail on the link of the
vendor when this post was started, reading 1.6 "8v"
I automatically thought it was ok for every 8v )
or make a tool that was good for both type of flywheel

Can you modify it to have it working?
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it could be modified, possibly with some welding, to make it stronger.
But what a pain. Got it sent 7000 miles only to find out it doesn't fit properly.

But I did manage to wedge it in to lock the flywheel, very crudely but it held in there until I torqued up the new one up to 14 kg-ms.

The manufacturer said it might be possible for them to make another tone for the 1.7 8v if I give them dimensions.

Will be taking some photos also.

Yes I never knew the 16v flywheel was different to the 8v.
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Bobkelso
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh..it seem that also they didn't know the difference..
Hope they send another right to you, best if free of charge..
After all, thank to you they are having some visibility here 'Smile'

Ps.: someone know why flywheel was changed in that way?
If I remember 1.3 i.e, 1.5 i.e. and 1.7 i.e have a flywheel
different and heavier from carbs version but with teeth
still in the same position, only 1,7 16v have changed that,
for some more electronic sensor or what??
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Hope they send another right to you, best if free of charge..


yep this is the idea as they did say it would fit my 1.7 8v in the first place.



Very Happy
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