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Advice on steel thickness for chassis repairs

 
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The Wombat
Alfa Sprint


Joined: 31 Aug 2012
Posts: 168
Location: Deepest darkest Huntingdonshire

PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:43 pm    Post subject: Advice on steel thickness for chassis repairs Reply with quote

Still looking round the P4 and not covered all of it yet as not started to pull it to bits. I would be greatful for advice on appropriate steel thickness for repairs though as I think is likely what I will end up doing first after the strip down.

Areas for repair that I need to tackle and have found so far are:
- Top lip of inner wing just inside the double bulkhead area. Not sure how extensive this is yet as I need to drop the outer wings off, but initial inspection is a small hole in the top on each side in exactly the same place

- Bottom of the engine bay bulkhead seam where it joins the A post return (if you get what I mean!!). The seam it self has rusted away for about 4 inches, and the rust has moved a tiny way into the bulkhead on the drivers side (passenger side looks ok but needs more investigation). Its probably a bigger repair than is visible, but looks straight forward.

- Rear inner sill for about 12 inches forward of the rear wheels, floor area in same place about 4 inches in, including rear jacking points (which no longer exist). The outer sill and seam look OK, but I suspect by the time I have cut the rot out and cleaned them up, the seams and bottom of the outer sills in that area will need new metal.

Everything else underneath looks sound so far.

If anyone has experience of dealing with the same areas, I would be very interested in knowing how you tackled it to build the strength back in. I have some reasonable welding experience with a MIG (although a bit rusty) but want to make sure I do a good set of repairs that last.

Will post pics of my repairs when I get that far.
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Oggie
Green Cloverleaf


Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 811
Location: Whitehill

PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You use 0.8mil or 0.9mil thickness, easier to match and weld to the original thickness, but if there is any way to modify and improve what was originally there then I would consider it unless you trying to keep authenticity.
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