Alfa Pages

[Blueskev]

Evening chaps, another frustrating afternoon on i.e..... Today I did a compression test and tried to set the timing. The compression test results were 150,160,115 and 120. A bit of variation but all were in the green segment of my tester.

There is only 1 timing mark on the flywheel so Im assuming this is the timing mark rather than TDC. With the vac advance disconnected and plugged, the strobe showed that the timing was quite a bit before the timing mark and also that it is wandering quite a bit. Im not sure whether the movement is due to the lumpy running or causing it, but when I tried to adjust the timing I found that the dizzy is solid in the block. Access is pretty poor so I guess I'll have to remove a few hoses etc to get at it properly another day.

Has anyone else had this and is the dizzy likely to come out without destroying it? Im thinking either trying to lever it under its body against the block, or hooking something round it and levering to lift from above.

Regards,
Kev.

[Ian M]

I would try a few gentle taps around it first, may just loosen it.
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Presntly own
Red Abarth 500c

[eagle3]

I would check valve timing before trying to move the distributor. Once again those compressions would suggest to me(sorry for being boring) a timing belt out by a tooth or two.

What engine is it? Is the ignition electronic or old style points?
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Alfa33 QO 1984
Alfa33 1.3i.e. 1994

[Bobkelso]

One friend here initially did a mistake with the phase regulation
on its boxer because he find only 1 timing mark on the flywheel
but after being advised he did a new search and he find the others
timing marks, don't know if you already know,
the marks scheme on carburated boxer alfa 33 usually is:

- TDC is a very light "T" mark on the flywheel, usually you cannot
see it if you don't clean the flywheel with some tool

- distributor advance at idle (may be without air advance connected)
and at high revs are "I" mark (about 8-10 degree from T)
and "II" mark (about 30-40 degree from T )

- position for safe moving valves and for regulate the right
tension on belts is a "V" (more than a "V", is a "triangle" mark ,
I don't remember but probably about 45 degree before or
after the T mark)

- "T" and "V" are also on ignited boxers, instead "I" and "II",
not sure, I think are present only in the ignited boxer with a dizzy
(at least the "I" mark)

When I have to move a blocked dizzy, I put some svitol/D40,
gently taps on it for a bit, and after some time I move it
by turning it with some heavy tool (big and long pliers acting
on the small or, more easy, on the bigger diameter section;
if acting on the bigger diameter you can to use some rubber
strip in between to avoid visible scratches),
some space problem working in the car, but to free the dizzy,
turning it is very more easy and safe than try to lift it

[Blueskev]

Thanks for the answers guys, its an injected 1.7ie without a cat. The dizzy is electronic. On the flywheel I found the triangle mark and only one other mark, a single line. Im using this line as the timing mark.
Eagle3, the two lower compressions were on different banks so both belts would have to be out? It runs so well above 2000rpm that Im thinking they must be correct?

Cheers,
Kev.

[eagle3]

If they're on opposite banks probably not the belts I suppose.

Quite a big difference between the two pairs but strange that the two pairs are virtually identical.

If it runs so well above 2000 it's unlikely to be an ignition timing issue IMO. Maybe air/fuel problem. Just guessing.

Just wondering would a cracked injecteur seal(o ring) cause a drop in compression??
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Alfa33 QO 1984
Alfa33 1.3i.e. 1994

[mg907]

Hi Kev,
Assuming your engine is a 8V one equipped with a bosch distributor,
turning the engine by hand, you should be able to reach the following situation:

1) The distributor rotor is positioned as the red line in the picture overlaps the sign highlighted by the green arrow.
https://picasaweb.google.com/110916262030376023265/33?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7_tP6byfz15QE#5931252159317376802

2) The T mark on the flywheel is aligned with the mark on the engine cover

3) The marks on cam pulleys of the two banks are visible through the small holes covered by the rubber caps

You should see the T mark when everything is set as above.

In my car those marks correspond and I suppose everything should be statically OK. Maybe dinamically as well,
because the engine starts easily, idles perfectly as soon as warmed a little, and runs smoothly at every revs.



Mario

[Blueskev]

[Blueskev]

[eagle3]

Certainly easier to remove than a diesel injector.

Not sure whether they're the same on my 1.3 but I managed to get them out without removing the inlet manifold. I would recommend getting them cleaned - it doesn't cost a fortune. You might even have an ultrasound cleaner at work!
http://www.alfa-restoration.co.uk/manuals/Fuel_Ignition_Exhaust/electroinjectors.pdf
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Alfa33 QO 1984
Alfa33 1.3i.e. 1994

[Admin]

Hi

Have a major nightmare getting the dizzy out of my lhd 1.3 (and once swapped over the darn thing still won't start ).

Landed up draining the oil, taking the sump off, taking the oil pump off and then drifting the dizzy out from below.

All the best

Keith
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I owe, I owe, its off to work we go.
Bimota Forum
Stafford Christmas Lights

[Bobkelso]

..first time I also had problems..After I learn that a quick
and safe way to free worse ones it is make some space above
the block to have access and turn the dizzy with one big of these
.."pinza giratubi"..plumbers use it..don't know its name in English..

http://www.ebay.it/itm/CHIAVE-GIRATUBI-GIRA-TUBO-TUBI-GIRATUBO-SVEDESE-2-45-PINZA-PAPPAGALLO-/151032680527?pt=Utensili_manuali&hash=item232a3fd04f
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Alfa 33

[89 Alfa 75]

Slip Jaw Pliers (very big ones) also good for removing oil filters that are over tightened and snap filter wrenches.
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1989 Alfa Romeo 75 twinspark, Alfa Romeo 33 1.5ie

[Bobkelso]

yes..and for worse ones the type I think in English is called
"swedish pipe Wrench", the type of 3 inch (600mm arms),
it can work with the bigger section of the dizzy,
but it is an expensive tool, I borrow it..

http://www.egamaster.com/en/component/egamaster/categorias/281/Pipe_and_Plumbing_Tools/Swedish_Pipe_and_Plumbing_Wrenches
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Alfa 33

[mg907]

Just for reference here are the pics of:

the II mark (advance at 4K rpm):

https://picasaweb.google.com/110916262030376023265/33?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7_tP6byfz15QE#5945665788395722562

The I mark (advance at 900 rpm):

https://picasaweb.google.com/110916262030376023265/33?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7_tP6byfz15QE#5945665869236784306

The T mark (TDC cyl. n. 1):

https://picasaweb.google.com/110916262030376023265/33?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7_tP6byfz15QE#5945665921010976626

You should see them in this sequence when turning the flywheel in the working direction.

Now I have a doubt. When the distributor rotor corresponds with the mark on the distributor body (ignition in cyl. 1 position), which mark should be visible from the hole in the block cover? The I mark or the T mark? (In my 33 the T mark is visible but I wonder if it is correct). I know that the correct approach is to check the advance with a strobo light when engine is running, but I'm curious if there is a rule to perform a fast check of the ignition advance in a 'static' way, when engine is stopped.