View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
mg907 Alfasud
Joined: 12 Dec 2011 Posts: 38 Location: Italy
|
Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 9:14 pm Post subject: The easiest way to replace cv boots |
|
|
Dear all,
here is a description of how I replaced outer cv boot without removing the cv joint from the axle.
It's not a difficult job, the only thing that may go wrong is the hub nut or or the allen bolts removal
(if they are too tight, rusted, of you haven't got the proper tool).
Here are some pictures about how I managed to remove the axle nut, with the following tools:
a 36 mm - 1/2" socket
a 1/2" T bar
the car jack (not to support the car!!!!)
a long piece of metal pipe and a square metal bar bolted to the hub to avoid its rotation
Here is the complete set before the hub nut removal
As expected the hub nut was really tight, I've had to take advantage of all my 150 lbs (not so much unfortunately)
standing on the pipe. But at the end it went off. The important thing is to be sure the 36 mm socket remains in the right
position when you stand on the pipe, for that reason I put the car jack under it.
Then I moved to untight the 6 allen bolts securing the inner joint to the gearbox.
Not so easy as well, it is extremely important to avoid the risk to spoil them with an improper tool.
A simple L-shaped allen wrench is absolutely unsuitable, in place of it I used this home-made tool
(a T bar made by 2 pipes with a 6mm socket welded on it, where you can insert the straight part of a 6 mm cut allen key):
It's important to be sure that the 6mm wrench is completely inserted into the allen bolt before forcing.
When everything is unbolted you can happily remove the axe from the car, being confident that the hardest job is made.
Now your axle is on the desk (please note the broken outer cv boot)
After have cut the broken boot and well cleaned the axle it's time to prepare yourself to install the new boot.
I bought from J & R cvjoints (on ebay) an universal boot kit that comes with cv joint grease, insertion cone, securing rings and
cone lube. It's really cheap and fits great on alfa 33.
There is no need to remove the cv joint from the axle, no struggling with circlips or a press.
The first thing to do is to oil the cone and the external part of the boot, then reverse the boot, put the cone on the outer joint
and make the boot slip on the cone. It's is not too easy, you have to apply a lot of strength on it, but it's possible to do the job
even without a helper.
Finally you can reverse the boot once again, fill it with cv joint grease, fit the metal rings and clean it from the cone-lube
When the axe is removed it's a good opportunity to check and add some grease to the inner joint as well
Installation Is the Reverse of Removal (IITROR)...as Haynes sometimes says...except for the different position of the bar! I forgot to suggest to mark the position of the inner joint support to be able to mount it in the same position as before.
It's also advisable to fit a brand new hub nut (as opposed as I did)
And finally the most obvious of the recommendations: be carefully while working underneath your car: support the car properly, safety first!
Mario |
|
Back to top |
|
|
john 33_16v 16 Valve
Joined: 27 May 2005 Posts: 1406 Location: herts, uk
|
Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 7:41 am Post subject: |
|
|
Good stuff.
Always been a bit doubtful about those stretch boots but it looks like it went on well.
John _________________ If it aint broke, fiddle with it until it is!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
93 33 16v Mirtle Met
08 Fiat Grande Punto Exotica Red
90 Yamaha FZR600 Genesis- Silky white/red/blue |
|
Back to top |
|
|
eagle3 Alfa 33
Joined: 11 Nov 2007 Posts: 402 Location: France
|
Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 7:58 am Post subject: |
|
|
Good job, apart from not having a new nut.
But you can change that with all four wheels on the ground. I normally loosen the nut before jacking the car up, and tighten it after it's back on the ground.
If you can't find another nut you can swap the two driveshaft nuts left to right, right to left and with a bit of luck have a fresh part of metal on each nut to brake both of them at the right torque. _________________ Alfa33 QO 1984
Alfa33 1.3i.e. 1994 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mg907 Alfasud
Joined: 12 Dec 2011 Posts: 38 Location: Italy
|
Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 10:41 am Post subject: |
|
|
@john
Honestly I not a fan of stretch boots as well but I noticed that a lot of mechanics here have started to install them (they do not use a cone, they have a pneumatic tool). I let you know if they last long compared to the traditional ones. The only thing I can say now is that the no-strecth boots are made by ticker rubber.
@eagle3
I'm going to buy a new hub nut and I'll replace the old one asap. Unfortunately my car mounts alley wheels and the central hole is too small for inserting the 36mm socket (maybe my socket is too large). So I cannot remove the hub nut while wheel is in place. Anyway thank you for the tip of swapping the rear and left nuts. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
eagle3 Alfa 33
Joined: 11 Nov 2007 Posts: 402 Location: France
|
Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 12:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Quote: |
@eagle3
I'm going to buy a new hub nut and I'll replace the old one asap. Unfortunately my car mounts alley wheels and the central hole is too small for inserting the 36mm socket (maybe my socket is too large). So I cannot remove the hub nut while wheel is in place. |
Oh right. It works ok with steel wheels. _________________ Alfa33 QO 1984
Alfa33 1.3i.e. 1994 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vantastic Alfa Sprint
Joined: 07 Apr 2012 Posts: 168
|
Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 3:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I have used them on car's that needed it for MOT, its quick and easyish fix, would use a normal one on my keeper car's _________________ P4 33......Fratellino (black)
V6 75 3.0.....Marmite
V6 155....Cristine (24v 3.0 Q2) spazio |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ZeNiTh-PbArM Alfa 33
Joined: 14 Mar 2003 Posts: 388 Location: Paris, France
|
Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 8:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hi,
You can use a 36 mm socket on alloy wheels provided yours is not a deep socket (or you need to trim it) by installing it on the nut before refitting the wheel. This is a little tedious since you need to remove the wheel a number of times but it helps a lot with stubborn nuts.
Beware of correctly locking the nut, one which gets loose generates slack and the first signs of this is a clacking noise every time you let the clutch in or depress the gas pedal. Quite tricky to find the first time you hear it.
The best boots are non-stretch type - the easiest way to insert them is to extract the inner CV joint once the transmission is off the car. Extracting the outer CV joint is more difficult and requires some tooling
regards,
zp |
|
Back to top |
|
|
RFlower Alfa 33
Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 432 Location: S of France
|
Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 11:28 am Post subject: |
|
|
There may be no figures available to compare them with standard boots, but I wonder if the more stretchy boots might last longer, by being more able to resist the constant flexing, which is what usually causes the boots to fail. _________________ Dick Flower, Nr. Carcassonne. '94 Trofeo 1.4 ie (F), '93 Imola 1.3/1.4 ie (now for breaking) (F), '91 1.7 ie (GB)(spare car), '86 Sprint 1.5 QV (F). '87 VW Syncro camper (F), '73 NSU Ro80 (F), '99 Fiat Seicento (F) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ZeNiTh-PbArM Alfa 33
Joined: 14 Mar 2003 Posts: 388 Location: Paris, France
|
Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 5:43 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hi,
My personal experience is that the "more stretchy" boots are thinner than standard boots and are not quite as durable as standard ones. Most mechanics around here have stopped using them since they sometimes fail within the 12-month warranty.
regards,
zp |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|