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Front wheel bearings 1990 33 1.5ie

 
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galaxierog
Alfa Arna


Joined: 12 Jun 2003
Posts: 14
Location: Birmingham, England

PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2003 2:20 pm    Post subject: Front wheel bearings 1990 33 1.5ie Reply with quote

How the heck do you get them off!! We have practically undone evething, but to get the bottom ball joint nut off means removing the drive shaft and it will not budge. There are no special release things that have to be done are there like some secret switch under the dash board? Exclamation
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gritsop
Green Cloverleaf


Joined: 23 Apr 2003
Posts: 766
Location: Ekali, Athens - Greece

PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2003 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

What is the secret switch under the dashboard?

Regards,
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Thanassis Gritsopoulos
1991 Alfa 33 1.4 IE
2001 Alfa 147 1.6 Distinctive

http://www.alfa-restoration.co.uk
Parts Shop: www.alfa-restoration.co.uk/shop
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2003 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the wheel bearing release switch ofcourse! Laughing
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gritsop
Green Cloverleaf


Joined: 23 Apr 2003
Posts: 766
Location: Ekali, Athens - Greece

PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2003 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I NOW got to the point !!!

The Italian has always anticipated everything!!!
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Thanassis Gritsopoulos
1991 Alfa 33 1.4 IE
2001 Alfa 147 1.6 Distinctive

http://www.alfa-restoration.co.uk
Parts Shop: www.alfa-restoration.co.uk/shop
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2003 1:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need a special alfa tool to remove the ring/nut?? it's a threaded ring that goes inside the hub and holds the bearing in place. I fabricated one with two bits of 3mm mild sheet steel cut to shape welded together (essential as the heat case hardens the edges and stops it deforming) and then ground to fit (it's an octagonal head about 40mm across, then there is the 32mm?? nut on the driveshaft the torque to undo and tighted is beyond the standard torque wrench, maybe a garage job)
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galaxierog
Alfa Arna


Joined: 12 Jun 2003
Posts: 14
Location: Birmingham, England

PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2003 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aha! thanks I never noticed anything like that I will try thanks. Rolling Eyes
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rjbevan
Alfasud


Joined: 15 Mar 2003
Posts: 43
Location: Stockport, UK

PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2003 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Haynes manual for the Sud states a number of special tools for the wheel bearings and states that you should take it to a garage. So I presume the 33 is the same. Only problem is that these days the Alfa garage will have thrown or lost the tools! Does anybody have these tools and would they be prepared to lend (or hire)them out? Or does someone know a garage (in the UK) that can still do the job?

Richard
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GaryUK
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2003 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like I said in the above post I fabricated the octagonal spanner. If you have no joy sourcing another one I may part with it (my creation) for a couple of quid as I sadly have no sud/33 at the moment.
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graeme
Alfasud


Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Posts: 64

PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2003 11:41 pm    Post subject: Front wheel bearings Reply with quote

Could you give more details and a description or post photos of the tool you made?

It would be useful for all of us at some time.
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16v p4 In pieces.
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galaxierog
Alfa Arna


Joined: 12 Jun 2003
Posts: 14
Location: Birmingham, England

PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

back to the original problem I was getting a bit ahead of myself. It is the Drive shaft I have a problem getting out, were some loctited in as I have heard the suds were?
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

graeme I cut a cardboard template (could use bluetack/plastercine) the right size then cut two bits of mild 3mm sheet steel to shape from this and welded them together round the outer edge. Ground the metal octagon to fit(tight) then drilled a hole through the centre put a bolt through this hole sticking out 1cm proud welded both sides (front - back) to metal octagon then cut and ground the oposite side to the bolt head nearly flush to octagon. I used a large bolt (1st one m10 sheared) as the securing ring is tight, it needed a 2m torque bar with me leaning heavily on it. The tool did distort but shifted the ring eventually. I used mild steel as it's easier to work with and the welding hardens the edges enough to work OK.
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