| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
burgo90
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 29 May 2003
Posts: 118
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
GaryUK
Guest
|
 Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2004 1:20 pm Post subject: |
 |
|
Burgo the boot floor is not structural and so can be fiberglassed of if you can weld patched.
I'd have thought that for a few quid you could cut a good one from a scrap car. Overcut it then drill out the spot welds at home, drill out the spot welds on your car. Hire a spot welder and then re-affix. I reckon including the hire you could do it for about £50. Make sure you buy good quality drill bits though, a 3mm for a pilot hole then a 6-9mm to take the weld out. If you buy quality two of each should do the trick. You can buy dedicated spot weld removal bits but this way will be cheaper.
I did very similar with the front of an MR2 except I seam welded it as I allready have a MIG plant. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
burgo90
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 29 May 2003
Posts: 118
|
| Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2004 5:04 pm Post subject: |
|
|
i could do but its gone alone the bag edge as well i think its actually gonna be easier to buy a new panel than try to patch it all and i work in a bodyshop do already got spot welder and special spot weld drill bits got all the tools to do a gd job and i can get it sprayed there as welll
_________________
http://www.novaload.net/features/viewfeature.php?ref=881 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
GaryUK
Guest
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2004 5:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
??????????????????????? If you work in a body shop why did you bother asking amateur questions and wasting my time? You should know if it's a good price or not!! Can't be a very good body shop if you can't cut out and weld in a peice of body panel section. I'm an amateur and I can use sheet steel to repair a section of door skin without resorting to cataloy.
|Sorry but howay!!!!!! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
burgo90
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 29 May 2003
Posts: 118
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
paddy granger
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 12 Aug 2003
Posts: 248
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2004 11:45 am Post subject: |
|
|
| burgo90 wrote: |
| errr who sed i couldnt do it i sed is it a good price or not as in do u kno ne where cheaper ffs chill out |
I have to agree with Burgo here, all he wanted was a price indication. Why had the boot floor rusted anyway? Was it due to a leaking boot? Our 33 first had a small paddling pool in the boot, full of mushrooms. This was due to a broken seal. Luckily, there isn't any rust at all. Then again, the series 3 probabaly had far better corrosion protection right? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
burgo90
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 29 May 2003
Posts: 118
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2004 6:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
yes i beleave it is from leakin but then again its has bin in a garage for five years now. not sure why but ill get it sorted one day got me other 4 cars to get done first
_________________
http://www.novaload.net/features/viewfeature.php?ref=881 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
paddy granger
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 12 Aug 2003
Posts: 248
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2004 7:04 pm Post subject: |
|
|
4 cars, and according to your profile thingy you aint got a liscence yet?  |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
burgo90
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 29 May 2003
Posts: 118
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
dave
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 05 Apr 2003
Posts: 139
Location: sussex
|
| Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2004 10:14 pm Post subject: re boot floor |
|
|
after doing the boot floor suggest you check seals around rear lights poss remove and silicone with clear sealant around seals then replace this is where ive found water leaking into my boot on the carpet making it wet then if not noticed slowly rusting floor pan this has been the case on serveral of my 33s that ive owned ser 1 / 2
thanks dave
_________________
alfadave1@btinternet.com
VW TOURAN 59 PLATE WHITE WITH TINTED WINDOWS AND ALLOYS MR BLING
CHEVY MATIZ |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
burgo90
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 29 May 2003
Posts: 118
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Matt Stolton
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 14 Mar 2003
Posts: 233
Location: London
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2004 8:39 am Post subject: Rear Floor Plan |
|
|
On my 1.5/1.7TI, I had holes appear on the boot floor, but this was caused by the shot blasting effect of crud from rear wheels hitting the metal, and ripping through it. After 130K miles of this shot blasting, two holes appeared, and the metal maggot got involved to assist in the decay. Had to cut it back to good metal, mesh and filled.
There was a little corrosion around the inside of the spare tyre well, but this was mild surface bobbling where paint had been scraped off in removing spare tyre/tools etc. Any other water had got in from the holes caused by the shot blasting.
In areas like this I have found that wire brushing the loose rust off, and then hammered hammerite paint, with a layer of under body sealant, seems to seriously slow the onset of rust. Unless you can see it, hammerite and sealer is very good all over. Other areas included behind the bumpers, anywhere under the car, and behind plastic trim, which will hide the hammerite/sealant mix.
I know in proper, professional painting circles there is a hammered, stone chip proof spray paint base, which is commonly used on sills and undersides, as it leaves a much thicker, tougher coat. Similar Idea to the Hammerite, but the proper way to do it.
_________________
Regards
Matt
Ex Alfa 33 'GTA' (P4 with Knobs On)
Now cruising in a 166 3.2 Ti!! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
RFlower
Alfa 33
Joined: 17 Feb 2004
Posts: 432
Location: S of France
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2004 12:26 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I think that Jenolite on the rust, before Hammerite is a good move also.
Jenolite is an old product, but it still works, if instructions are followed, and is cheap.
_________________
Dick Flower, Nr. Carcassonne. '94 Trofeo 1.4 ie (F), '93 Imola 1.3/1.4 ie (now for breaking) (F), '91 1.7 ie (GB)(spare car), '86 Sprint 1.5 QV (F). '87 VW Syncro camper (F), '73 NSU Ro80 (F), '99 Fiat Seicento (F) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
paddy granger
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 12 Aug 2003
Posts: 248
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2004 1:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| RFlower wrote: |
I think that Jenolite on the rust, before Hammerite is a good move also.
Jenolite is an old product, but it still works, if instructions are followed, and is cheap. |
I found a small lump, about an inch sqaure, of rusted weld underneath at the back of my 33 a few years ago. Not entirely sure of why it was there, but that is another matter. I removed the rust and as there was still plenty of metal around it simply cleaned up the area and filled it. This was just between the spare tyre well, and the rear bumper. Being a young kid at the time studying chemistry, I first used a zinc spray on the small area, followed by a thick underseal, followed by red paint. The zinc and undersealant products were all TRP (truck related products), which was a brand used at the DAF truck garage which my dad ran. The rust has not spread. I also treated certain parts of the car with tectyl to reduce chance of rust starting. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
paddy granger
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 12 Aug 2003
Posts: 248
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2004 3:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Dick, my father also used Jenolite in the past to neutralize a rusty area on a Vauxhall Viva. First wire brush or steel wool the area until clean, then treat with Jenolite.
He recommends a zink primer after the Jenolite treatment (this obvioussly reduces the chance of further rusting on the actual structural metal as it is a more reactive metal which oxidizes easier - the rusting is stopped as the oxidation is transferred from the car (rust) to the zinc layer). The oxidized zinc offers excellent corrosion protection, like galvanization. After the zinc primer, a thick hammer finish undersealent is ideal as it protects from scratches, and stone chips etc
For those of you who are unaware of what Jenolite is, it is a phosphoric acid based compound which kills off any lingering rust. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
burgo90
Alfa Sprint
Joined: 29 May 2003
Posts: 118
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
